SLI causing Blue Tone WOW & SWTOR
I've been on 290.53 for a while and fixed my various issues by changing my screen resolution. When updating to the new 295.73 however I get this weird blue hue, that sometimes likes to be a blue hue flicker. Any ideas on how to solve this? Currently I switched back to the 290.53 driver, but I would like to be using the newest one. Thanks in advance, my computer specs should be in my signature.
I've been on 290.53 for a while and fixed my various issues by changing my screen resolution. When updating to the new 295.73 however I get this weird blue hue, that sometimes likes to be a blue hue flicker. Any ideas on how to solve this? Currently I switched back to the 290.53 driver, but I would like to be using the newest one. Thanks in advance, my computer specs should be in my signature.

Here's my build:



CoolerMaster HAF 932 Advanced Full Tower Gaming Case

Harmony SRS Sound Reduction System

Internal Expansion [6-Port] NZXT Internal USB Expansion System + Bluetooth & Wireless N

Intel® Core™ i7 3960X Processor

Asetek 570LX Liquid CPU Cooling System w/ Dual Radiator - 2x ARC Silent High Performance Fans

32 GB [4 GB X8] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair Vengeance

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 590 - SLI Dual Cards

[3-Way SLI] ASUS P9X79 Deluxe - 2x Gb LAN, 4x PCI-E x16, 4x SATA 6Gb/s, 4x USB 3.0, On-Board Bluetooth

1500 Watt - SilverStone ST1500

Primary HD: 120 GB Corsair Force Series GT SSD

Data HD: 2 TB HARD DRIVE -- 64M Cache, 7200rpm, 6.0Gb/s

[12X Blu-Ray] Pioneer BLU-RAY Re-Writer, DVD±R/±RW Burner Combo Drive

24X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive

NZXT Sentry LX Aluminum Fan Control, Clock, and Temperature Display

NZXT Bunker 5.25" USB Locking Device (4 x Ports)

Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion Series

Killer 2100 Gaming Network Card

#1
Posted 03/03/2012 09:19 PM   
I had a red flicker once that was cured by reseating the cards in their slots. It was easy enough to trace down at the time because I had just moved and figure it got jostled...
I had a red flicker once that was cured by reseating the cards in their slots. It was easy enough to trace down at the time because I had just moved and figure it got jostled...

Intel Siler DX79SI Desktop Extreme | Intel Core i7-3820 Sandy Bridge-Extreme | DangerDen M6 and Koolance MVR-40s w/Black Ice Stealths | 32 GB Mushkin PC3-12800LV | NVIDIA GTX 660 Ti SLI | PNY GTX 470 | 24 GB RAMDisk (C:\Temp\Temp) | 120 GB Intel Cherryville SSDs (OS and UserData)| 530 GB Western Digital VelociRaptor SATA 2 RAID0 (C:\Games\) | 60 GB G2 SSDs (XP Pro and Linux) | 3 TB Western Digital USB-3 MyBook (Archive) | LG BP40NS20 USB ODD | LG IPS236 Monitor | LogiTech X-530 Speakers | Plantronics GameCom 780 Headphones | Cooler Master UCP 1100 | Cooler Master HAF XB | Windows 7 Pro x64 SP1

Stock is Extreme now

#2
Posted 03/03/2012 10:00 PM   
[quote name='jaafaman' date='03 March 2012 - 05:00 PM' timestamp='1330812056' post='1378154']
I had a red flicker once that was cured by reseating the cards in their slots. It was easy enough to trace down at the time because I had just moved and figure it got jostled...
[/quote]

My cards haven't moved and neither has the tower, it was working before I updated.


It seems it goes away if I change my AA setting to SLI 128x CSAA. This blue hue flicker also happens in Batman Arkham City, Just Cause 2, and Eligium. About the only place it doesn't happen is when I'm not playing a game. (Can any one comment on the pro's and con's of this setting?)


reverting to my old driver didn't help either, :( so I'm back on 295.73.


Update**:
This fixed all but Batman.
[quote name='jaafaman' date='03 March 2012 - 05:00 PM' timestamp='1330812056' post='1378154']

I had a red flicker once that was cured by reseating the cards in their slots. It was easy enough to trace down at the time because I had just moved and figure it got jostled...





My cards haven't moved and neither has the tower, it was working before I updated.





It seems it goes away if I change my AA setting to SLI 128x CSAA. This blue hue flicker also happens in Batman Arkham City, Just Cause 2, and Eligium. About the only place it doesn't happen is when I'm not playing a game. (Can any one comment on the pro's and con's of this setting?)





reverting to my old driver didn't help either, :( so I'm back on 295.73.





Update**:

This fixed all but Batman.

Here's my build:



CoolerMaster HAF 932 Advanced Full Tower Gaming Case

Harmony SRS Sound Reduction System

Internal Expansion [6-Port] NZXT Internal USB Expansion System + Bluetooth & Wireless N

Intel® Core™ i7 3960X Processor

Asetek 570LX Liquid CPU Cooling System w/ Dual Radiator - 2x ARC Silent High Performance Fans

32 GB [4 GB X8] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair Vengeance

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 590 - SLI Dual Cards

[3-Way SLI] ASUS P9X79 Deluxe - 2x Gb LAN, 4x PCI-E x16, 4x SATA 6Gb/s, 4x USB 3.0, On-Board Bluetooth

1500 Watt - SilverStone ST1500

Primary HD: 120 GB Corsair Force Series GT SSD

Data HD: 2 TB HARD DRIVE -- 64M Cache, 7200rpm, 6.0Gb/s

[12X Blu-Ray] Pioneer BLU-RAY Re-Writer, DVD±R/±RW Burner Combo Drive

24X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive

NZXT Sentry LX Aluminum Fan Control, Clock, and Temperature Display

NZXT Bunker 5.25" USB Locking Device (4 x Ports)

Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion Series

Killer 2100 Gaming Network Card

#3
Posted 03/03/2012 10:20 PM   
Since water's not covering your GPUs, it certainly couldn't hurt to give it a try. Not having ever moved does not immediately rule out not being squarely seated, the point was made as illustrative to stumbling across the cause.

Power draw sometimes differ from driver set to driver set as various feature implementations are tweaked, added or otherwise refined. A multi-Gb/s system's weakest point lies in slot contacts as it affects signal "purity" the most. And if any of the power pins are akilter, then you don't have the full surface area with which to carry sufficient amperage when the load is maxed.

I could go on, but it'd probably be quicker to just try it out than to read an all-out response to the possibilities...




Since water's not covering your GPUs, it certainly couldn't hurt to give it a try. Not having ever moved does not immediately rule out not being squarely seated, the point was made as illustrative to stumbling across the cause.



Power draw sometimes differ from driver set to driver set as various feature implementations are tweaked, added or otherwise refined. A multi-Gb/s system's weakest point lies in slot contacts as it affects signal "purity" the most. And if any of the power pins are akilter, then you don't have the full surface area with which to carry sufficient amperage when the load is maxed.



I could go on, but it'd probably be quicker to just try it out than to read an all-out response to the possibilities...








Intel Siler DX79SI Desktop Extreme | Intel Core i7-3820 Sandy Bridge-Extreme | DangerDen M6 and Koolance MVR-40s w/Black Ice Stealths | 32 GB Mushkin PC3-12800LV | NVIDIA GTX 660 Ti SLI | PNY GTX 470 | 24 GB RAMDisk (C:\Temp\Temp) | 120 GB Intel Cherryville SSDs (OS and UserData)| 530 GB Western Digital VelociRaptor SATA 2 RAID0 (C:\Games\) | 60 GB G2 SSDs (XP Pro and Linux) | 3 TB Western Digital USB-3 MyBook (Archive) | LG BP40NS20 USB ODD | LG IPS236 Monitor | LogiTech X-530 Speakers | Plantronics GameCom 780 Headphones | Cooler Master UCP 1100 | Cooler Master HAF XB | Windows 7 Pro x64 SP1

Stock is Extreme now

#4
Posted 03/03/2012 11:20 PM   
Scroll To Top