Tutorial Project: Nº2 - How to paint components
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Hi Everyone,

As mentioned in the Tutorial Project: Nº2 thread, several components will have their own thread, i.e. this one. This is mainly so there´s a generic thread on how to paint such componentes so anyone can use it as a guide without having to read through the whole main tutorial project.

You can see how these components look in the overall project by reading the main thread:
http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=223683

First, I´m going to start with the optical drive.

In this case I will be using an LG CD/DVD rewriter, but most common modern drives have the same mounting system so while there may be some differences, the concept remains the same.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/1.JPG[/img]

We need to open the bay, for that you can either open it when your pc is on and then leaving it open when you shut down and unmount it or you can put a pin in a small hole on the front of the bay which by pushing it in, it will eject the bay.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/2.JPG[/img]

We now need to remove the bay mask, in this case it slides off upwards, again there may be some differences in your drive of choice but just be carefull, you don´t want to brake it.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/3.JPG[/img]

Now we need to remove the frontal, normally there are mounting clips on the sides and underneath which need to be pressed in in order to release it.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/4.JPG[/img]

We remove the metal casing by taking off the 4-5 screws under the optical drive, once done you can take it apart easily, in most cases it will just slide off.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/5.JPG[/img]

We proceed to sand down everything and clean it, remember to remove the stickers, normally I use distilled water but you may use other products like alcohol. If you use a different kind of product like window cleaner, make sure it´s not abrasive or you may damage the plastic.

Once done and dry we proceed with the primer. For paint types and techniques please refer to the main project thread stated at the beggining of this thread.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/6.JPG[/img]

Because I will be using a pearl effect finish, I need to aply a base color on top of the primer, if you´re using a normal, glossy, or metallic color you can ignore this step.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/7.JPG[/img]

The first coat of pearl blue.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/8.JPG[/img]

First coat of pearl white on the frontal.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/9.JPG[/img]

Once dry, we aply a coat of clear lacquer and leave it to cure for 24h

Now it´s all ready to put it back togueter, and here we go, our finished optical drive, ready to be mounted in the tower.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/10.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/11.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/12.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/drive/13.JPG[/img]

Next post will be the hard drive.
Hi Everyone,



As mentioned in the Tutorial Project: Nº2 thread, several components will have their own thread, i.e. this one. This is mainly so there´s a generic thread on how to paint such componentes so anyone can use it as a guide without having to read through the whole main tutorial project.



You can see how these components look in the overall project by reading the main thread:

http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=223683



First, I´m going to start with the optical drive.



In this case I will be using an LG CD/DVD rewriter, but most common modern drives have the same mounting system so while there may be some differences, the concept remains the same.



Image



We need to open the bay, for that you can either open it when your pc is on and then leaving it open when you shut down and unmount it or you can put a pin in a small hole on the front of the bay which by pushing it in, it will eject the bay.



Image



We now need to remove the bay mask, in this case it slides off upwards, again there may be some differences in your drive of choice but just be carefull, you don´t want to brake it.



Image



Now we need to remove the frontal, normally there are mounting clips on the sides and underneath which need to be pressed in in order to release it.



Image



We remove the metal casing by taking off the 4-5 screws under the optical drive, once done you can take it apart easily, in most cases it will just slide off.



Image



We proceed to sand down everything and clean it, remember to remove the stickers, normally I use distilled water but you may use other products like alcohol. If you use a different kind of product like window cleaner, make sure it´s not abrasive or you may damage the plastic.



Once done and dry we proceed with the primer. For paint types and techniques please refer to the main project thread stated at the beggining of this thread.



Image



Because I will be using a pearl effect finish, I need to aply a base color on top of the primer, if you´re using a normal, glossy, or metallic color you can ignore this step.



Image



The first coat of pearl blue.



Image



First coat of pearl white on the frontal.



Image



Once dry, we aply a coat of clear lacquer and leave it to cure for 24h



Now it´s all ready to put it back togueter, and here we go, our finished optical drive, ready to be mounted in the tower.



Image



Image



Image



Image



Next post will be the hard drive.

#1
Posted 03/02/2012 12:32 PM   
Looks great.

The HDD will be interesting - is it a more risky thing to do??

Cannot wait to see the completed project - loving the design / colour :)
Looks great.



The HDD will be interesting - is it a more risky thing to do??



Cannot wait to see the completed project - loving the design / colour :)

I knew I hadn't imagined it... now it's deleted = people will never know what I hadn't imagined...

"Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning."



"Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience"


Image



GPU-Z CPU-Z Ccleaner Driversweeper OCCT

#2
Posted 03/02/2012 04:30 PM   
In did it is, but as long as you follow the steps I´ll be posting you´ll be fine : )
In did it is, but as long as you follow the steps I´ll be posting you´ll be fine : )

#3
Posted 03/02/2012 04:44 PM   
[quote name='Luciel' date='02 March 2012 - 11:44 AM' timestamp='1330706671' post='1377645']
In did it is, but as long as you follow the steps I´ll be posting you´ll be fine : )
[/quote]

May I recommend an alcohol scrub down prior to paint and latex gloves (non powered) during handling? If you still have an issue with "fish eyes", try a newer or different brand of primer first, a dusting is all it takes under the correct conditions using recent paint, not the stuff that's been sitting for 20 years on shelf. But it looks good otherwise, seriously!
[quote name='Luciel' date='02 March 2012 - 11:44 AM' timestamp='1330706671' post='1377645']

In did it is, but as long as you follow the steps I´ll be posting you´ll be fine : )





May I recommend an alcohol scrub down prior to paint and latex gloves (non powered) during handling? If you still have an issue with "fish eyes", try a newer or different brand of primer first, a dusting is all it takes under the correct conditions using recent paint, not the stuff that's been sitting for 20 years on shelf. But it looks good otherwise, seriously!

#4
Posted 03/05/2012 04:37 AM   
[quote name='t3t4' date='04 March 2012 - 11:37 PM' timestamp='1330922261' post='1378680']
May I recommend an alcohol scrub down prior to paint and latex gloves (non powered) during handling? If you still have an issue with "fish eyes", try a newer or different brand of primer first, a dusting is all it takes under the correct conditions using recent paint, not the stuff that's been sitting for 20 years on shelf. But it looks good otherwise, seriously!
[/quote]

[i]Actually non-latex surgical gloves are the best...less grip and zero coating. They are what I use in the OR, and on my rigs. [/i]

-Hooks
[quote name='t3t4' date='04 March 2012 - 11:37 PM' timestamp='1330922261' post='1378680']

May I recommend an alcohol scrub down prior to paint and latex gloves (non powered) during handling? If you still have an issue with "fish eyes", try a newer or different brand of primer first, a dusting is all it takes under the correct conditions using recent paint, not the stuff that's been sitting for 20 years on shelf. But it looks good otherwise, seriously!





Actually non-latex surgical gloves are the best...less grip and zero coating. They are what I use in the OR, and on my rigs.



-Hooks

QUOTE (The Professor @ Oct 31 2010, 04:59 AM)

*Jeremy Clarkson face*



So we must hand it over to our tame PC tweaker. Some say he sticky tapes a block of uranium to his dinner before eating it and that he sucks moisture out of ducks. All we know is, he's called Hooks.



"Eye of the Storm" Window Mod Tutorial <> "Inside Crysis 2" <> Top Tier Water-Blocks 2011 <> SSD Unlimited Storage Tutorial

#5
Posted 03/05/2012 02:00 PM   
I think I already mentioned the alcohol scrub down, if not on here on the main tutorial thread (which this one points to for pain types and techniques, as a side note, personally I use non-latex surgical gloves. Do you mention all this as in, to add in info, or did I miss some prints on the paintwork? :S
I think I already mentioned the alcohol scrub down, if not on here on the main tutorial thread (which this one points to for pain types and techniques, as a side note, personally I use non-latex surgical gloves. Do you mention all this as in, to add in info, or did I miss some prints on the paintwork? :S

#6
Posted 03/05/2012 11:33 PM   
[quote name='Luciel' date='05 March 2012 - 06:33 PM' timestamp='1330990409' post='1379075']
I think I already mentioned the alcohol scrub down, if not on here on the main tutorial thread (which this one points to for pain types and techniques, as a side note, personally I use non-latex surgical gloves. Do you mention all this as in, to add in info, or did I miss some prints on the paintwork? :S
[/quote]

Yeah, I only mentioned a couple things in a helpful sense, nothing more. I use nitrile gloves myself, but couldn't remember the term last night so latex is what came to mind. You may have mentioned all this in previous posts, but I tend to focus on pictures when available. When I saw the fish eyes in the pic's, I just thought I'd mention a couple ways to prevent the issue. /smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smile:' />
[quote name='Luciel' date='05 March 2012 - 06:33 PM' timestamp='1330990409' post='1379075']

I think I already mentioned the alcohol scrub down, if not on here on the main tutorial thread (which this one points to for pain types and techniques, as a side note, personally I use non-latex surgical gloves. Do you mention all this as in, to add in info, or did I miss some prints on the paintwork? :S





Yeah, I only mentioned a couple things in a helpful sense, nothing more. I use nitrile gloves myself, but couldn't remember the term last night so latex is what came to mind. You may have mentioned all this in previous posts, but I tend to focus on pictures when available. When I saw the fish eyes in the pic's, I just thought I'd mention a couple ways to prevent the issue. /smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smile:' />

#7
Posted 03/06/2012 12:44 AM   
Thanks : )

Sorry language barrier here (english not being my mother language), what are fisheyes? (you know, aside from the eyes of a fish :P)
Thanks : )



Sorry language barrier here (english not being my mother language), what are fisheyes? (you know, aside from the eyes of a fish :P)

#8
Posted 03/06/2012 07:10 PM   
[quote name='Luciel' date='06 March 2012 - 02:10 PM' timestamp='1331061047' post='1379460']
Thanks : )

Sorry language barrier here (english not being my mother language), what are fisheyes? (you know, aside from the eyes of a fish :P)
[/quote]

No worries.

The term "fisheye" is used to describe an issue where the paint circles around a contaminant on the painted surface, the end result is a circle like formation that looks very much like a real fish eye. Sometimes old paint will cause this problem, but usually it's caused by an oily residue on the surface of the object to be painted.

[url="http://www.google.com/search?q=fisheyes+in+paint&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=WA1&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=N2VWT9iSDaG90AHfpPmSCg&ved=0CCoQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=916"]Here are some good examples of bad fisheye, mainly in the top row of pic's.[/url]

There is also the term "orange peal" which describes paint texture more then anything else. If paint is spayed too heavily in one coat, you'll often see a less then smooth texture once the pint dries. This texture looks very much like the skin of an orange, so it's called orange peal.

Fisheye and orange peal are probably the two most common terms used in the automotive paint industry, so I just thought I should mention both conditions. I only saw fisheye on the drive case that you painted blue, and since the PC case will cover that once installed, you're good to go.
[quote name='Luciel' date='06 March 2012 - 02:10 PM' timestamp='1331061047' post='1379460']

Thanks : )



Sorry language barrier here (english not being my mother language), what are fisheyes? (you know, aside from the eyes of a fish :P)





No worries.



The term "fisheye" is used to describe an issue where the paint circles around a contaminant on the painted surface, the end result is a circle like formation that looks very much like a real fish eye. Sometimes old paint will cause this problem, but usually it's caused by an oily residue on the surface of the object to be painted.



Here are some good examples of bad fisheye, mainly in the top row of pic's.



There is also the term "orange peal" which describes paint texture more then anything else. If paint is spayed too heavily in one coat, you'll often see a less then smooth texture once the pint dries. This texture looks very much like the skin of an orange, so it's called orange peal.



Fisheye and orange peal are probably the two most common terms used in the automotive paint industry, so I just thought I should mention both conditions. I only saw fisheye on the drive case that you painted blue, and since the PC case will cover that once installed, you're good to go.

#9
Posted 03/06/2012 08:19 PM   
Part 2:

Hard Drives.

Hi everyone, before I start there´s two things you need to know; first, some hard drives have ventilation holes on top (mostly WD drives) and some don´t (mostly Seagate drives), this doesn´t mean you can´t paint them but you have to be very carefull, if you use the right paint (acrylic) you won´t cover the hole as it does not create a "coat" if you will, therefore not covering the hole, remember to paint in a sideways manner so paint doesn´t go directly in the hole as a drip could cover the hole. Secondly, i think this is pretty obvious but this WILL invalidate your warrantee.

That said, let´s start.

First we have to remove all stickers, you can if you wish to keep a more retail look, leave them on and just cover them with masking tape and detailing tape, but for the purpose of the tutorial I will be removing them.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/1.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/2.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/3.JPG[/img]

Here´s the tricky part, if it´s not a new drive, chances are that it´s dirty so we have to clean it. We also don´t want to use sanding paper as we don´t want to create any sort of electrostatic energy on the surface of the drive, just in case. So what we do is using a bit of cotton with a drop of alcohol, we clean the drive as best as we can.

Really the paint process is the same as when painting the dvd drive, there´s a few changes however. We have to cover certain surfaces that while paint wont go anywhere near it, it´s more for safety and getting clean lines.

For this I use masking tape, not detailing tape as it has to adjust to the surface which isn´t plain or straight so detailing tape isn´t great for it.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/4.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/5.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/6.JPG[/img]

Now we aply primer, remember, for tips and what paint types to use refer to the main tutorial thread indicated on the first post of this thread.

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/7.JPG[/img]

Give it 20 minutes and we can aply the first coat of the chosen color. Wait another 20-30 minutes and aply the second coat. 40 minutes later you can aply the clear coat lacquer for protection.

Give it 24h so it can cure...

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/8.JPG[/img]

Remove the masking tape and...

...you´re done!

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/9.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/10.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/hdd/11.JPG[/img]

Next post will be a Lamptron FC3 controller, I´ve chosen this one as the design is basic and the guide should aply to most fan controllers.
Part 2:



Hard Drives.



Hi everyone, before I start there´s two things you need to know; first, some hard drives have ventilation holes on top (mostly WD drives) and some don´t (mostly Seagate drives), this doesn´t mean you can´t paint them but you have to be very carefull, if you use the right paint (acrylic) you won´t cover the hole as it does not create a "coat" if you will, therefore not covering the hole, remember to paint in a sideways manner so paint doesn´t go directly in the hole as a drip could cover the hole. Secondly, i think this is pretty obvious but this WILL invalidate your warrantee.



That said, let´s start.



First we have to remove all stickers, you can if you wish to keep a more retail look, leave them on and just cover them with masking tape and detailing tape, but for the purpose of the tutorial I will be removing them.



Image



Image



Image



Here´s the tricky part, if it´s not a new drive, chances are that it´s dirty so we have to clean it. We also don´t want to use sanding paper as we don´t want to create any sort of electrostatic energy on the surface of the drive, just in case. So what we do is using a bit of cotton with a drop of alcohol, we clean the drive as best as we can.



Really the paint process is the same as when painting the dvd drive, there´s a few changes however. We have to cover certain surfaces that while paint wont go anywhere near it, it´s more for safety and getting clean lines.



For this I use masking tape, not detailing tape as it has to adjust to the surface which isn´t plain or straight so detailing tape isn´t great for it.



Image



Image



Image



Now we aply primer, remember, for tips and what paint types to use refer to the main tutorial thread indicated on the first post of this thread.



Image



Give it 20 minutes and we can aply the first coat of the chosen color. Wait another 20-30 minutes and aply the second coat. 40 minutes later you can aply the clear coat lacquer for protection.



Give it 24h so it can cure...



Image



Remove the masking tape and...



...you´re done!



Image



Image



Image



Next post will be a Lamptron FC3 controller, I´ve chosen this one as the design is basic and the guide should aply to most fan controllers.

#10
Posted 03/18/2012 02:19 PM   
Hi Everyone,

Today we have the fan controller tutorial, in this specific case, a Lamptron FC3, I´ve chosen this one for two reasons, first, because it follows a structure design that most controllers follow, simple controls, mounted on a 5.25" bay with front plate and pcb so you can use this tutorial for the fan controller of your choice in most cases. Second, because of the build quality of Lamptron´s controllers so I know it´s not going to fall apart when trying to modify it, be it paint wise or deeper modification.

So let´s start, here´s the FC3 by Lamptron.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/1.JPG[/IMG]

Because I will only be painting the front in this case as the side is to short to be visible within the top bay of the case, I won´t be taking out the pcb, but just in case you want to do it in yours, most follow the same design, two screws.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/2.JPG[/IMG]

If you use a Lamptron fan controller you´ll notice that the bottom part of it is covered for protection, however if you´re carefull enough you can slowly peal it off in order to dismantle it.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/3.JPG[/IMG]

Back on track, to remove the front we need to remove all 4 screws that hold the faceplate on.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/4.JPG[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/5.JPG[/IMG]

I quite like the black mesh for contrast so I´m leaving it on for now. I chose the black edition of the FC3 as it´s anodyzed alum which means we can paint it, non anodyzed alum will give you trouble as paint has more trouble staying on and it´s likely that it will peal off eventually.

So we aply a coat of primer, for paint types and techniques, reffer to the first post on this thread for a link to the main tutorial post in which I talk about the types, techniques and ways of aplying paint.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/6.JPG[/IMG]

We wait 20 mins and we´re good to go to aply the first coat of color, then wait another 20 mins and aply the second coat (sometimes one coat is enough, but in the case of white you really want to use 2 coats at least to get a nice solid white color. We wait 30 min and we aply the clear coat lacquer and we let it cure for 24h.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/7.JPG[/IMG]

Right, let´s mount it and see how it looks.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/8.JPG[/IMG]

I like it but... hmm it just doesn´t go with the rest of the look, so I´m going to go ahead an take it apart again and paint the mesh blue. Repeat the paint process on the mesh. Now I´ve put it back togueter and...

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/9.JPG[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/fc3/10.JPG[/IMG]

...much better.

Next part will be the Graphics card.
Hi Everyone,



Today we have the fan controller tutorial, in this specific case, a Lamptron FC3, I´ve chosen this one for two reasons, first, because it follows a structure design that most controllers follow, simple controls, mounted on a 5.25" bay with front plate and pcb so you can use this tutorial for the fan controller of your choice in most cases. Second, because of the build quality of Lamptron´s controllers so I know it´s not going to fall apart when trying to modify it, be it paint wise or deeper modification.



So let´s start, here´s the FC3 by Lamptron.



Image



Because I will only be painting the front in this case as the side is to short to be visible within the top bay of the case, I won´t be taking out the pcb, but just in case you want to do it in yours, most follow the same design, two screws.



Image



If you use a Lamptron fan controller you´ll notice that the bottom part of it is covered for protection, however if you´re carefull enough you can slowly peal it off in order to dismantle it.



Image



Back on track, to remove the front we need to remove all 4 screws that hold the faceplate on.



Image



Image



I quite like the black mesh for contrast so I´m leaving it on for now. I chose the black edition of the FC3 as it´s anodyzed alum which means we can paint it, non anodyzed alum will give you trouble as paint has more trouble staying on and it´s likely that it will peal off eventually.



So we aply a coat of primer, for paint types and techniques, reffer to the first post on this thread for a link to the main tutorial post in which I talk about the types, techniques and ways of aplying paint.



Image



We wait 20 mins and we´re good to go to aply the first coat of color, then wait another 20 mins and aply the second coat (sometimes one coat is enough, but in the case of white you really want to use 2 coats at least to get a nice solid white color. We wait 30 min and we aply the clear coat lacquer and we let it cure for 24h.



Image



Right, let´s mount it and see how it looks.



Image



I like it but... hmm it just doesn´t go with the rest of the look, so I´m going to go ahead an take it apart again and paint the mesh blue. Repeat the paint process on the mesh. Now I´ve put it back togueter and...



Image



Image



...much better.



Next part will be the Graphics card.

#11
Posted 03/23/2012 09:43 AM   
For the purpose of this tutorial I will be using a 9800 GTX I normally use as a spare. Please have in mind that, as with most of these, following these steps will void your warrantee.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/gpu/1.JPG[/IMG]

The first thing is taking the gpu apart, we need to remove all the screws in the back. Have in mind that this may vary depending on the brand of the card, there may be other screws, hooks, cables, etc, so do not force it open if it doesnt easily (although if the card is very old and very dirty it may seem as it´s still hold down by another screw when really it´s just the thermal paste).

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/gpu/2.JPG[/IMG]

Once that is done we need to remove all stickers and clean the surface.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/gpu/3.JPG[/IMG]

This really depends on the card itself, sometime you may get lucky, others... well... let´s just say I spent a few hours cleaning and sanding down this one.

The next step is to paint it, for paint techniquest, preparation, types and so on, check the first post of this thread which links to the main tutorial thread where all this is explained in detail.

Once ready, we put it all togueter again. Remember to remove the old thermal paste and aply some new one. About the trim, that´s really up to you if you want to change it. In my case it seemed in decent enough shape so didn´t bother changing it.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/gpu/4.JPG[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/gpu/5.JPG[/IMG]

Up Next,
The Antec 620 H2O CPU Cooler
For the purpose of this tutorial I will be using a 9800 GTX I normally use as a spare. Please have in mind that, as with most of these, following these steps will void your warrantee.



Image



The first thing is taking the gpu apart, we need to remove all the screws in the back. Have in mind that this may vary depending on the brand of the card, there may be other screws, hooks, cables, etc, so do not force it open if it doesnt easily (although if the card is very old and very dirty it may seem as it´s still hold down by another screw when really it´s just the thermal paste).



Image



Once that is done we need to remove all stickers and clean the surface.



Image



This really depends on the card itself, sometime you may get lucky, others... well... let´s just say I spent a few hours cleaning and sanding down this one.



The next step is to paint it, for paint techniquest, preparation, types and so on, check the first post of this thread which links to the main tutorial thread where all this is explained in detail.



Once ready, we put it all togueter again. Remember to remove the old thermal paste and aply some new one. About the trim, that´s really up to you if you want to change it. In my case it seemed in decent enough shape so didn´t bother changing it.



Image



Image



Up Next,

The Antec 620 H2O CPU Cooler

#12
Posted 05/02/2012 05:19 PM   
Damn that looks nice.
Damn that looks nice.

Core i7 960 @4.14Ghz 180x23 1.3v Liquid cooled

Gigabyte G1. Assassin

EVGA GTX 560 Ti "Maximum Graphics Crysis 2"

Cooler Master HAF-X

Corsair Dominator GT CMT12GX3M3A2000C9 RAM

RMA broke my 580 SLI. Now I have a 7970 and a GTX 580 gathering dust, looking for a buyer.

#13
Posted 05/02/2012 06:22 PM   
Agreed UPC Man.

I cannot wait to see this build populated :)
Agreed UPC Man.



I cannot wait to see this build populated :)

I knew I hadn't imagined it... now it's deleted = people will never know what I hadn't imagined...

"Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning."



"Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience"


Image



GPU-Z CPU-Z Ccleaner Driversweeper OCCT

#14
Posted 05/03/2012 06:58 AM   
Thanks guys!

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It´s time for the Antec 620 H2O CPU Cooler.

First thing´s first, let´s unpack it as it´s brand new.

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/620/1.JPG[/IMG]

Right this is provably the most simple part to prep, what I´ve done here is, using masking tape I´ve covered all the piping and instead of covering the cpu cooler itself, I´ve wrapped a plastic bag around. I know it may sound stupid but check the bag hasn´t got any holes!

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/620/2.JPG[/IMG]

I´ve cleaned it even though it´s new, we don´t want any dust particles on the surface. For paint types, techniques, waiting times and so on check the first post of this thread which has a link to the main tutorial thread where everything is explained in detail. Do feel free to ask if you still have doubts after that though.

Once dry, I´ve removed all the taping and done! Ready to go in!

[IMG]http://www.neonit.net/images/n2/620/3.JPG[/IMG]

Next up, the power suply (at the time of writing I´ve bought a more powerfull PSU as the one I had for this project doesn´t cut it for the gpu, so even though I painted it and it works, I´ll be posting a tutorial with the new PSU so the next post will remain "reserved").

* RESERVED FOR PSU GUIDE TUTORIAL *

-----------------------------------------

With this we finalize the how to paint components thread and we go back to the main thread to continue with the build.

http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=223683&st=20&gopid=1404529&#entry1404529
Thanks guys!



----------------



It´s time for the Antec 620 H2O CPU Cooler.



First thing´s first, let´s unpack it as it´s brand new.



Image



Right this is provably the most simple part to prep, what I´ve done here is, using masking tape I´ve covered all the piping and instead of covering the cpu cooler itself, I´ve wrapped a plastic bag around. I know it may sound stupid but check the bag hasn´t got any holes!



Image



I´ve cleaned it even though it´s new, we don´t want any dust particles on the surface. For paint types, techniques, waiting times and so on check the first post of this thread which has a link to the main tutorial thread where everything is explained in detail. Do feel free to ask if you still have doubts after that though.



Once dry, I´ve removed all the taping and done! Ready to go in!



Image



Next up, the power suply (at the time of writing I´ve bought a more powerfull PSU as the one I had for this project doesn´t cut it for the gpu, so even though I painted it and it works, I´ll be posting a tutorial with the new PSU so the next post will remain "reserved").

* RESERVED FOR PSU GUIDE TUTORIAL *



-----------------------------------------



With this we finalize the how to paint components thread and we go back to the main thread to continue with the build.



http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=223683&st=20&gopid=1404529&#entry1404529

#15
Posted 05/05/2012 08:53 AM   
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