Crazy Bad experience with 560 TI SLI
Hey everyone

So.. many months ago, just before BF3 came out, I bought myself a second graphics card, a Gigabyte 560 TI SOC, bringing my system specs to the following:

Intel i7 2600K
Corsair CMS3 8 gb
Corsair TX 750 watt
2 x Gigabyte GTX 560 TI SOC

And I've been having terrible problems ever since. Now, I never bothered to come on here and post before, because mainly I was only having issues with Battlefield 3. Every other game worked flawlessly. However, the new driver is causing me to crash to black screen in many games including GTA4 (which never happened before) and FREQUENT TDRs with BF3.

My problems are getting crazy, because in BF3, on just about all maps, I can have great FPS (40+), but if I look in a certain direction, my FPS will CONSISTENTLY drop to 1, or even below that, which drives me to the brink of insanity. What's more, I usually start the game with great framerates, but after about 5 minutes of playing, the FPS deteriorates dramatically... Also, the problems only happen when I play with SLI. Running the game in single card mode leaves me with a decent experience, but Ultra is a little slow in single card mode for obvious reasons.

Now again, I always thought in the back of my mind, Maybe this is an issue with BF3, cause it only happens in BF3.. But after installing the new WHQL today, and crashing is occuring in my other games as well, I am speechless and frankly pissed off. Why did I pay so much money for a second card, if there isn't even a proper driver release for it? It's mind boggling!!

Can ANYONE offer me some advice on this situation? I'm at the end of my rope, and I really dont want to sell off my cards to revert back to a single card setup. It would be a huge waste of my time and money...

Thanks.
Hey everyone



So.. many months ago, just before BF3 came out, I bought myself a second graphics card, a Gigabyte 560 TI SOC, bringing my system specs to the following:



Intel i7 2600K

Corsair CMS3 8 gb

Corsair TX 750 watt

2 x Gigabyte GTX 560 TI SOC



And I've been having terrible problems ever since. Now, I never bothered to come on here and post before, because mainly I was only having issues with Battlefield 3. Every other game worked flawlessly. However, the new driver is causing me to crash to black screen in many games including GTA4 (which never happened before) and FREQUENT TDRs with BF3.



My problems are getting crazy, because in BF3, on just about all maps, I can have great FPS (40+), but if I look in a certain direction, my FPS will CONSISTENTLY drop to 1, or even below that, which drives me to the brink of insanity. What's more, I usually start the game with great framerates, but after about 5 minutes of playing, the FPS deteriorates dramatically... Also, the problems only happen when I play with SLI. Running the game in single card mode leaves me with a decent experience, but Ultra is a little slow in single card mode for obvious reasons.



Now again, I always thought in the back of my mind, Maybe this is an issue with BF3, cause it only happens in BF3.. But after installing the new WHQL today, and crashing is occuring in my other games as well, I am speechless and frankly pissed off. Why did I pay so much money for a second card, if there isn't even a proper driver release for it? It's mind boggling!!



Can ANYONE offer me some advice on this situation? I'm at the end of my rope, and I really dont want to sell off my cards to revert back to a single card setup. It would be a huge waste of my time and money...



Thanks.

Please, call me OV.



Case: Silverstone Raven 3

Mobo: ASUS P67 Sabertooth

Cpu: Intel i7 2600K @ Stock

Ram: Corsair CMS3 8GB DDR3

GPU: 2x Nvidia GIGABYTE GTX 560 TI's in SLI

HD: 640 Gb Western Digital Caviar Blue

PSU: Corsair TX750 - 750W

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit

#1
Posted 02/28/2012 07:29 AM   
[quote name='OV3RSKY' date='28 February 2012 - 07:29 AM' timestamp='1330414190' post='1376035']
Hey everyone

So.. many months ago, just before BF3 came out, I bought myself a second graphics card, a Gigabyte 560 TI SOC, bringing my system specs to the following:

Intel i7 2600K
Corsair CMS3 8 gb
Corsair TX 750 watt
2 x Gigabyte GTX 560 TI SOC

And I've been having terrible problems ever since. Now, I never bothered to come on here and post before, because mainly I was only having issues with Battlefield 3. Every other game worked flawlessly. However, the new driver is causing me to crash to black screen in many games including GTA4 (which never happened before) and FREQUENT TDRs with BF3.

My problems are getting crazy, because in BF3, on just about all maps, I can have great FPS (40+), but if I look in a certain direction, my FPS will CONSISTENTLY drop to 1, or even below that, which drives me to the brink of insanity. What's more, I usually start the game with great framerates, but after about 5 minutes of playing, the FPS deteriorates dramatically... Also, the problems only happen when I play with SLI. Running the game in single card mode leaves me with a decent experience, but Ultra is a little slow in single card mode for obvious reasons.

Now again, I always thought in the back of my mind, Maybe this is an issue with BF3, cause it only happens in BF3.. But after installing the new WHQL today, and crashing is occuring in my other games as well, I am speechless and frankly pissed off. Why did I pay so much money for a second card, if there isn't even a proper driver release for it? It's mind boggling!!

Can ANYONE offer me some advice on this situation? I'm at the end of my rope, and I really dont want to sell off my cards to revert back to a single card setup. It would be a huge waste of my time and money...

Thanks.
[/quote]

On the face of it, it sounds like a power supply issue - however in theory your PSU should be enough for two 560 Ti's in SLI. However as yours are the SOC edition, which will have a decent amount of extra power draw. Just looking at this [url="http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-560-ti-sli-review/14"]Guru3D review[/url] of the 560 Ti's in SLI:
[quote]GeForce GTX 560 Ti in 2-way SLI

A second card requires you to add another ~175 Watts. You need a 700+ Watt power supply unit if you use it in a high-end system (800+ to a KiloWatt is recommended if you plan on any overclocking).
For each other card (3-way SLI) that you add, just add another 200 Watts and 20A on the 12V rails as a safety margin. What would happen if your PSU can't cope with the load? Here are some pointers:

[list][*]bad 3D performance
[*]crashing games
[*]spontaneous reset or imminent shutdown of the PC
[*]freezing during gameplay
[*]PSU overload can cause it to break down[/list][/quote]

Equally it could be an unstable overclock on the cards, something which is certainly not unknown with factory overclocked versions. It could also be overheating, especially if the problem is getting worse over time while gaming. There are three feasible options therefore; either the two cards are drawing too much power, the overclock on the cards is not stable, or they are getting too hot.

With any of these three options, the problem could be exacerbated by a new driver version, as the driver may be increasing utilisation or getting more performance out of the card.

Can you install EVGA Precision so that you can see what the temperatures are like while gaming?


J
[quote name='OV3RSKY' date='28 February 2012 - 07:29 AM' timestamp='1330414190' post='1376035']

Hey everyone



So.. many months ago, just before BF3 came out, I bought myself a second graphics card, a Gigabyte 560 TI SOC, bringing my system specs to the following:



Intel i7 2600K

Corsair CMS3 8 gb

Corsair TX 750 watt

2 x Gigabyte GTX 560 TI SOC



And I've been having terrible problems ever since. Now, I never bothered to come on here and post before, because mainly I was only having issues with Battlefield 3. Every other game worked flawlessly. However, the new driver is causing me to crash to black screen in many games including GTA4 (which never happened before) and FREQUENT TDRs with BF3.



My problems are getting crazy, because in BF3, on just about all maps, I can have great FPS (40+), but if I look in a certain direction, my FPS will CONSISTENTLY drop to 1, or even below that, which drives me to the brink of insanity. What's more, I usually start the game with great framerates, but after about 5 minutes of playing, the FPS deteriorates dramatically... Also, the problems only happen when I play with SLI. Running the game in single card mode leaves me with a decent experience, but Ultra is a little slow in single card mode for obvious reasons.



Now again, I always thought in the back of my mind, Maybe this is an issue with BF3, cause it only happens in BF3.. But after installing the new WHQL today, and crashing is occuring in my other games as well, I am speechless and frankly pissed off. Why did I pay so much money for a second card, if there isn't even a proper driver release for it? It's mind boggling!!



Can ANYONE offer me some advice on this situation? I'm at the end of my rope, and I really dont want to sell off my cards to revert back to a single card setup. It would be a huge waste of my time and money...



Thanks.





On the face of it, it sounds like a power supply issue - however in theory your PSU should be enough for two 560 Ti's in SLI. However as yours are the SOC edition, which will have a decent amount of extra power draw. Just looking at this Guru3D review of the 560 Ti's in SLI:

GeForce GTX 560 Ti in 2-way SLI



A second card requires you to add another ~175 Watts. You need a 700+ Watt power supply unit if you use it in a high-end system (800+ to a KiloWatt is recommended if you plan on any overclocking).

For each other card (3-way SLI) that you add, just add another 200 Watts and 20A on the 12V rails as a safety margin. What would happen if your PSU can't cope with the load? Here are some pointers:



  • bad 3D performance
  • crashing games
  • spontaneous reset or imminent shutdown of the PC
  • freezing during gameplay
  • PSU overload can cause it to break down


Equally it could be an unstable overclock on the cards, something which is certainly not unknown with factory overclocked versions. It could also be overheating, especially if the problem is getting worse over time while gaming. There are three feasible options therefore; either the two cards are drawing too much power, the overclock on the cards is not stable, or they are getting too hot.



With any of these three options, the problem could be exacerbated by a new driver version, as the driver may be increasing utilisation or getting more performance out of the card.



Can you install EVGA Precision so that you can see what the temperatures are like while gaming?





J

Official GeForce Forums Benchmarking Leaderboards

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Asus ROG Swift PG278Q monitor, Logitech G9X mouse, Corsair Vengeance keyboard.

Feel free to PM me if I don't follow-up on a thread that I have responded to.

Community Moderator - not employed by NVIDIA.

#2
Posted 02/28/2012 08:27 AM   
Well, I already know the temperatures for my cards are unacceptably high. Which is retarded because I've gone through so much to try and keep them cool. The 2nd Card is always OK, it reaches max temps at load of about 70-80 degrees, but my main card gets as hot as 99-100 when under maximum load.

Again, im not a fool, I've had many computers and I know that this is super high, but nothing I've tried so far is lowering the temperatures. (I even have a Silverstone Raven 3 case, and it didn't help temperatures at all.) I guess my only option at the moment is to remove one of my cards to see if lower temperatures will really help the situation.

Question then: If my cards get to a ridiculously hot temperature, could the new drivers be forcing a shutdown of my computer to protect the equipment where the old drivers would not have?



Once again, I don't want to see any posts that say: DUDE YOUR CARDS ARE TOO HOT! Cause I'm already well aware of that, and this is depressing enough as it is lol.
Well, I already know the temperatures for my cards are unacceptably high. Which is retarded because I've gone through so much to try and keep them cool. The 2nd Card is always OK, it reaches max temps at load of about 70-80 degrees, but my main card gets as hot as 99-100 when under maximum load.



Again, im not a fool, I've had many computers and I know that this is super high, but nothing I've tried so far is lowering the temperatures. (I even have a Silverstone Raven 3 case, and it didn't help temperatures at all.) I guess my only option at the moment is to remove one of my cards to see if lower temperatures will really help the situation.



Question then: If my cards get to a ridiculously hot temperature, could the new drivers be forcing a shutdown of my computer to protect the equipment where the old drivers would not have?







Once again, I don't want to see any posts that say: DUDE YOUR CARDS ARE TOO HOT! Cause I'm already well aware of that, and this is depressing enough as it is lol.

Please, call me OV.



Case: Silverstone Raven 3

Mobo: ASUS P67 Sabertooth

Cpu: Intel i7 2600K @ Stock

Ram: Corsair CMS3 8GB DDR3

GPU: 2x Nvidia GIGABYTE GTX 560 TI's in SLI

HD: 640 Gb Western Digital Caviar Blue

PSU: Corsair TX750 - 750W

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit

#3
Posted 02/28/2012 04:24 PM   
Did you try lowering the overclocks on them (btw which SOCs, 1000 or 950)? Although it won't tell if it's the temps or the PSU.
If your first card is getting that hot, and your second not so much, maybe try switching them on the motherboard (and btw which MB?).
Did you try lowering the overclocks on them (btw which SOCs, 1000 or 950)? Although it won't tell if it's the temps or the PSU.

If your first card is getting that hot, and your second not so much, maybe try switching them on the motherboard (and btw which MB?).

GPU: Gigabyte GTX 560Ti SOC 950 (factory OC 950/4580 MHz) (GV-N560SO-1GI-950)
CPU: Intel i7-2600K (OC 4500MHz@~1.320V) | MB: ASRock P67 Extreme4 (B3) (BIOS: P2.10) | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws-X 2x4GB 1600MHz 9-9-9-24-1T 1.50V (F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL) | PSU: Corsair AX 750W, 80+ Gold (CMPSU-750AXEU) | HDD: 2x Seagate 1TB SATA3 in RAID0 (ST31000524AS)
Monitor: DELL U2412M (1920x1200@60Hz) | Audio: Onboard Realtek HD Audio ALC892 (driver: R2.66) | LAN: Onboard Realtek Gigabit LAN RTL8111E (driver: 7.049) | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64bit (SP1) | Browser: Firefox 13+

#4
Posted 02/28/2012 07:12 PM   
[quote name='OV3RSKY' date='28 February 2012 - 04:24 PM' timestamp='1330446267' post='1376217']
Well, I already know the temperatures for my cards are unacceptably high. Which is retarded because I've gone through so much to try and keep them cool. The 2nd Card is always OK, it reaches max temps at load of about 70-80 degrees, but my main card gets as hot as 99-100 when under maximum load.

Again, im not a fool, I've had many computers and I know that this is super high, but nothing I've tried so far is lowering the temperatures. (I even have a Silverstone Raven 3 case, and it didn't help temperatures at all.) I guess my only option at the moment is to remove one of my cards to see if lower temperatures will really help the situation.

Question then: If my cards get to a ridiculously hot temperature, could the new drivers be forcing a shutdown of my computer to protect the equipment where the old drivers would not have?



Once again, I don't want to see any posts that say: DUDE YOUR CARDS ARE TOO HOT! Cause I'm already well aware of that, and this is depressing enough as it is lol.
[/quote]

Well without stating the obvious point (which I think you know), I would not be comfortable with any of my cards getting that hot while gaming - they could easily be passing 100*C at times by the sounds of it. Sure these temperatures are technically below the thermal cut out, but you run a high risk of damaging the cards or at best significantly reducing the lifespan by running them at those temperatures on a regular basis.

[url="http://www.geforce.com/Hardware/GPUs/geforce-gtx-560ti/specifications"]Check out[/url] what the maximum operating temperatures are supposed to be for 560 Ti.

And of course at high temperatures the cards can throttle themselves to prevent permanent damage, which could easily explain the drops in performance you are seeing. The TDR errors could be cause by either this throttling (stopping the GPU from responding in an adequate time) or simply a symptom of the high temperatures in general. If the GPU is getting that warm, there are also plenty of other components on the card which are probably getting too hot.

Are the cards right next to each other in your case? Is there anything you can do to improve the airflow in/out of the case, or the ambient temperature of the room? Obviously overclocked cards run much hotter than stock, so you really need to make sure your cooling is up to scratch to keep them in SLI. Mine are damn difficult to keep cool!

If you do decide to test a single card, try them both separately to ensure there are no issues with either - and keep a close eye on the temperatures. This could still in theory be some other issue, but temperature seems the most likely cause.

EDIT. Not ignoring guniu's post, these are good questions.
EDIT 2. You could also look into custom fan profiles.


J
[quote name='OV3RSKY' date='28 February 2012 - 04:24 PM' timestamp='1330446267' post='1376217']

Well, I already know the temperatures for my cards are unacceptably high. Which is retarded because I've gone through so much to try and keep them cool. The 2nd Card is always OK, it reaches max temps at load of about 70-80 degrees, but my main card gets as hot as 99-100 when under maximum load.



Again, im not a fool, I've had many computers and I know that this is super high, but nothing I've tried so far is lowering the temperatures. (I even have a Silverstone Raven 3 case, and it didn't help temperatures at all.) I guess my only option at the moment is to remove one of my cards to see if lower temperatures will really help the situation.



Question then: If my cards get to a ridiculously hot temperature, could the new drivers be forcing a shutdown of my computer to protect the equipment where the old drivers would not have?







Once again, I don't want to see any posts that say: DUDE YOUR CARDS ARE TOO HOT! Cause I'm already well aware of that, and this is depressing enough as it is lol.





Well without stating the obvious point (which I think you know), I would not be comfortable with any of my cards getting that hot while gaming - they could easily be passing 100*C at times by the sounds of it. Sure these temperatures are technically below the thermal cut out, but you run a high risk of damaging the cards or at best significantly reducing the lifespan by running them at those temperatures on a regular basis.



Check out what the maximum operating temperatures are supposed to be for 560 Ti.



And of course at high temperatures the cards can throttle themselves to prevent permanent damage, which could easily explain the drops in performance you are seeing. The TDR errors could be cause by either this throttling (stopping the GPU from responding in an adequate time) or simply a symptom of the high temperatures in general. If the GPU is getting that warm, there are also plenty of other components on the card which are probably getting too hot.



Are the cards right next to each other in your case? Is there anything you can do to improve the airflow in/out of the case, or the ambient temperature of the room? Obviously overclocked cards run much hotter than stock, so you really need to make sure your cooling is up to scratch to keep them in SLI. Mine are damn difficult to keep cool!



If you do decide to test a single card, try them both separately to ensure there are no issues with either - and keep a close eye on the temperatures. This could still in theory be some other issue, but temperature seems the most likely cause.



EDIT. Not ignoring guniu's post, these are good questions.

EDIT 2. You could also look into custom fan profiles.





J

Official GeForce Forums Benchmarking Leaderboards

Minima: Corsair Obsidian 350D mATX, Asus Maximus VI GENE Z87, Intel Core i7-4790k @ 4.60GHz, Corsair H110, Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (4x4GB) @ 2400MHz, 1x Intel 730k 480GB, 1x WD Scorpio Black 750GB, 2x WD Caviar Black 1TB, 1x GTX Titan X, 1x GTX 750 Ti, Enermax 1250W Evolution, Windows 10 64bit.

Asus ROG Swift PG278Q monitor, Logitech G9X mouse, Corsair Vengeance keyboard.

Feel free to PM me if I don't follow-up on a thread that I have responded to.

Community Moderator - not employed by NVIDIA.

#5
Posted 02/28/2012 09:27 PM   
Well I just tried a single card setup, and the temps im getting are completely reasonable and so far no TDRs and to my great dismay, my performance in bf3 is actually higher with one card than it is with two D:

But whatever, At least I'm moving on with my discoveries. Tomorrow I'm gonna swap the cards out and test my other one in single card mode, see if that's also okay. If it is, then I'm going to have to think long and hard about how I can cool down the card in slot one.

In SLI, the cards are fairly close together, and in response to Guniu's questions, 1) I pretty much had to lower the clocks to get BF3 to stop crashing. This seemed to be a very common problem with BF3 at launch, though I have no idea if that issue is fixed now. My cards are the 950 mhz version. They are currently clocked at 900/1800 with 1075 mV (which I set it at after looking at various other sources for help with the 560 Ti and BF3). and 2) I have an Asus P67 Sabretooth

And the custom fan profiles don't help all that much. I've had it set to 100% speed at 65*C for quite some time.

Thanks for the help here though, I appreciate it.
Well I just tried a single card setup, and the temps im getting are completely reasonable and so far no TDRs and to my great dismay, my performance in bf3 is actually higher with one card than it is with two D:



But whatever, At least I'm moving on with my discoveries. Tomorrow I'm gonna swap the cards out and test my other one in single card mode, see if that's also okay. If it is, then I'm going to have to think long and hard about how I can cool down the card in slot one.



In SLI, the cards are fairly close together, and in response to Guniu's questions, 1) I pretty much had to lower the clocks to get BF3 to stop crashing. This seemed to be a very common problem with BF3 at launch, though I have no idea if that issue is fixed now. My cards are the 950 mhz version. They are currently clocked at 900/1800 with 1075 mV (which I set it at after looking at various other sources for help with the 560 Ti and BF3). and 2) I have an Asus P67 Sabretooth



And the custom fan profiles don't help all that much. I've had it set to 100% speed at 65*C for quite some time.



Thanks for the help here though, I appreciate it.

Please, call me OV.



Case: Silverstone Raven 3

Mobo: ASUS P67 Sabertooth

Cpu: Intel i7 2600K @ Stock

Ram: Corsair CMS3 8GB DDR3

GPU: 2x Nvidia GIGABYTE GTX 560 TI's in SLI

HD: 640 Gb Western Digital Caviar Blue

PSU: Corsair TX750 - 750W

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit

#6
Posted 02/29/2012 07:56 AM   
[quote name='OV3RSKY' date='29 February 2012 - 08:56 AM' timestamp='1330502202' post='1376554']
[...] They are currently clocked at 900/1800 with 1075 mV (which I set it at after looking at various other sources for help with the 560 Ti and BF3). [...]
[/quote]
Ok, I think here might be your problem. My card (also Gigabyte SOC-950) is at 950MHz and 1.000V and is stable in games. I don't know if your card was also factory set to 1.000V, but if it was somewhere near it, then you might overvolting it a bit. Every chip is different, and the sources you're referring to may not be suited for yours. I think it's safe to say, since you also downclocked your card, you should easily be able to set it to factory voltage and be stable in games. And the temps should also lower a bit.
[quote name='OV3RSKY' date='29 February 2012 - 08:56 AM' timestamp='1330502202' post='1376554']

[...] They are currently clocked at 900/1800 with 1075 mV (which I set it at after looking at various other sources for help with the 560 Ti and BF3). [...]



Ok, I think here might be your problem. My card (also Gigabyte SOC-950) is at 950MHz and 1.000V and is stable in games. I don't know if your card was also factory set to 1.000V, but if it was somewhere near it, then you might overvolting it a bit. Every chip is different, and the sources you're referring to may not be suited for yours. I think it's safe to say, since you also downclocked your card, you should easily be able to set it to factory voltage and be stable in games. And the temps should also lower a bit.

GPU: Gigabyte GTX 560Ti SOC 950 (factory OC 950/4580 MHz) (GV-N560SO-1GI-950)
CPU: Intel i7-2600K (OC 4500MHz@~1.320V) | MB: ASRock P67 Extreme4 (B3) (BIOS: P2.10) | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws-X 2x4GB 1600MHz 9-9-9-24-1T 1.50V (F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL) | PSU: Corsair AX 750W, 80+ Gold (CMPSU-750AXEU) | HDD: 2x Seagate 1TB SATA3 in RAID0 (ST31000524AS)
Monitor: DELL U2412M (1920x1200@60Hz) | Audio: Onboard Realtek HD Audio ALC892 (driver: R2.66) | LAN: Onboard Realtek Gigabit LAN RTL8111E (driver: 7.049) | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64bit (SP1) | Browser: Firefox 13+

#7
Posted 02/29/2012 06:25 PM   
[quote name='guniu' date='29 February 2012 - 01:25 PM' timestamp='1330539911' post='1376768']
Ok, I think here might be your problem. My card (also Gigabyte SOC-950) is at 950MHz and 1.000V and is stable in games. I don't know if your card was also factory set to 1.000V, but if it was somewhere near it, then you might overvolting it a bit. Every chip is different, and the sources you're referring to may not be suited for yours. I think it's safe to say, since you also downclocked your card, you should easily be able to set it to factory voltage and be stable in games. And the temps should also lower a bit.
[/quote]

For the sake of trying everything, I'll return to reasonable voltages. Upping the voltages helped my stability in BF3 though, so I'm not going to hope for too much
[quote name='guniu' date='29 February 2012 - 01:25 PM' timestamp='1330539911' post='1376768']

Ok, I think here might be your problem. My card (also Gigabyte SOC-950) is at 950MHz and 1.000V and is stable in games. I don't know if your card was also factory set to 1.000V, but if it was somewhere near it, then you might overvolting it a bit. Every chip is different, and the sources you're referring to may not be suited for yours. I think it's safe to say, since you also downclocked your card, you should easily be able to set it to factory voltage and be stable in games. And the temps should also lower a bit.





For the sake of trying everything, I'll return to reasonable voltages. Upping the voltages helped my stability in BF3 though, so I'm not going to hope for too much

Please, call me OV.



Case: Silverstone Raven 3

Mobo: ASUS P67 Sabertooth

Cpu: Intel i7 2600K @ Stock

Ram: Corsair CMS3 8GB DDR3

GPU: 2x Nvidia GIGABYTE GTX 560 TI's in SLI

HD: 640 Gb Western Digital Caviar Blue

PSU: Corsair TX750 - 750W

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit

#8
Posted 02/29/2012 09:12 PM   
Crap. So after noticing that my temps were great in single card, I'm back to SLI, and my temperatures are again skyrocketing for card one, topping out at 87 in BF3... I even stuck a fan blowing right between the two cards. This is bs... Does anyone have any ideas on how to cool the first card?
Crap. So after noticing that my temps were great in single card, I'm back to SLI, and my temperatures are again skyrocketing for card one, topping out at 87 in BF3... I even stuck a fan blowing right between the two cards. This is bs... Does anyone have any ideas on how to cool the first card?

Please, call me OV.



Case: Silverstone Raven 3

Mobo: ASUS P67 Sabertooth

Cpu: Intel i7 2600K @ Stock

Ram: Corsair CMS3 8GB DDR3

GPU: 2x Nvidia GIGABYTE GTX 560 TI's in SLI

HD: 640 Gb Western Digital Caviar Blue

PSU: Corsair TX750 - 750W

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit

#9
Posted 03/01/2012 06:36 PM   
So after lots of trial and error, I believe I have found a suitable solution for me, as for now, everything seems to be working great. I will post my findings here so that others may have luck as well.

I uninstalled the drivers, and used driver sweeper to perform a clean install of the latest WHQL drivers. As suggested, I set my cards to run at 1.000 Volts. However, I found this setting too low, as it caused my cards to TDR in BF3. Setting the voltage to 1025 mV using afterburner fixed this problem.

As well, decreasing the voltage by 50 mV (from where it was originally at 1075) has helped keep temperatures down, but not as much as opening the side of my case and jamming an antec spotcool fan between the 2 cards in SLI. I now max out at 80 degrees under 100% load after 2 hours.

For now, this combination of settings has me stable, more or less, and I hope that others may find this information useful in the future.
So after lots of trial and error, I believe I have found a suitable solution for me, as for now, everything seems to be working great. I will post my findings here so that others may have luck as well.



I uninstalled the drivers, and used driver sweeper to perform a clean install of the latest WHQL drivers. As suggested, I set my cards to run at 1.000 Volts. However, I found this setting too low, as it caused my cards to TDR in BF3. Setting the voltage to 1025 mV using afterburner fixed this problem.



As well, decreasing the voltage by 50 mV (from where it was originally at 1075) has helped keep temperatures down, but not as much as opening the side of my case and jamming an antec spotcool fan between the 2 cards in SLI. I now max out at 80 degrees under 100% load after 2 hours.



For now, this combination of settings has me stable, more or less, and I hope that others may find this information useful in the future.

Please, call me OV.



Case: Silverstone Raven 3

Mobo: ASUS P67 Sabertooth

Cpu: Intel i7 2600K @ Stock

Ram: Corsair CMS3 8GB DDR3

GPU: 2x Nvidia GIGABYTE GTX 560 TI's in SLI

HD: 640 Gb Western Digital Caviar Blue

PSU: Corsair TX750 - 750W

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit

#10
Posted 03/04/2012 07:23 AM   
[quote name='OV3RSKY' date='04 March 2012 - 07:23 AM' timestamp='1330845818' post='1378267']
So after lots of trial and error, I believe I have found a suitable solution for me, as for now, everything seems to be working great. I will post my findings here so that others may have luck as well.

I uninstalled the drivers, and used driver sweeper to perform a clean install of the latest WHQL drivers. As suggested, I set my cards to run at 1.000 Volts. However, I found this setting too low, as it caused my cards to TDR in BF3. Setting the voltage to 1025 mV using afterburner fixed this problem.

As well, decreasing the voltage by 50 mV (from where it was originally at 1075) has helped keep temperatures down, but not as much as opening the side of my case and jamming an antec spotcool fan between the 2 cards in SLI. I now max out at 80 degrees under 100% load after 2 hours.

For now, this combination of settings has me stable, more or less, and I hope that others may find this information useful in the future.
[/quote]

Hi OV3RSKY, glad to hear you got it sorted and thanks for letting us know - those load temperatures are much more reassuring, probably cooler than my 570s actually! Unfortunately SLI plus overclocked cards can mean extra cooling is needed, but depends on a number of other factors too.

Are you running back at 950MHz?


J
[quote name='OV3RSKY' date='04 March 2012 - 07:23 AM' timestamp='1330845818' post='1378267']

So after lots of trial and error, I believe I have found a suitable solution for me, as for now, everything seems to be working great. I will post my findings here so that others may have luck as well.



I uninstalled the drivers, and used driver sweeper to perform a clean install of the latest WHQL drivers. As suggested, I set my cards to run at 1.000 Volts. However, I found this setting too low, as it caused my cards to TDR in BF3. Setting the voltage to 1025 mV using afterburner fixed this problem.



As well, decreasing the voltage by 50 mV (from where it was originally at 1075) has helped keep temperatures down, but not as much as opening the side of my case and jamming an antec spotcool fan between the 2 cards in SLI. I now max out at 80 degrees under 100% load after 2 hours.



For now, this combination of settings has me stable, more or less, and I hope that others may find this information useful in the future.





Hi OV3RSKY, glad to hear you got it sorted and thanks for letting us know - those load temperatures are much more reassuring, probably cooler than my 570s actually! Unfortunately SLI plus overclocked cards can mean extra cooling is needed, but depends on a number of other factors too.



Are you running back at 950MHz?





J

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#11
Posted 03/08/2012 09:25 AM   
I'm running the same setup and getting 67-69 temps.. MAX.. Also, I use MSI afterburner to pump up the fans once it hits 60 degrees. If you cool the cards and don't let them hit 70 degrees this may help.

With regards to the original OP, I'm thinking it's a bottleneck at all other points less the cards. The GTX 560s are very tough and can pump out quite a lot if you give them enough power and resources.

Check my system setup as I don't have any of these problems. Yeah I get BF3 CTDs on occasion but it's so rare that it's not an issue for me. That's BF3 being a whiny little bitch sometimes lol.
I'm running the same setup and getting 67-69 temps.. MAX.. Also, I use MSI afterburner to pump up the fans once it hits 60 degrees. If you cool the cards and don't let them hit 70 degrees this may help.



With regards to the original OP, I'm thinking it's a bottleneck at all other points less the cards. The GTX 560s are very tough and can pump out quite a lot if you give them enough power and resources.



Check my system setup as I don't have any of these problems. Yeah I get BF3 CTDs on occasion but it's so rare that it's not an issue for me. That's BF3 being a whiny little bitch sometimes lol.

PProcessor: i7 3930K 3.2 stock @ 4.50
Motherboard: Asus P9X79 Deluxe
Cooling: Swiftech H320
Memory: 24GB Kingston HyperX triple channel
Video Card(s): Gigabyte Windforce GTX 760 4GBDDR5 X2 SLI
Hard Disk(s): Adata 512Gb X900 SSD Primary, WD Velociraptors 512Gb RAID 0 X2
Optical Drive: LG Blu Ray Burner
Monitor: Benq XL2420T 24" LED Gaming Monitor
Case: Corsair Obsidian 800D
Sound Card: Onboard
Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Power 1000W
Software: Win 8.1 x64 Enterprise

#12
Posted 03/15/2012 01:59 PM   
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