GTX580 SOC psu requirements Are the amps on this psu sufficient to run the card
Hello,

I've recently purchased a new PC consisting of:
i7 2700k
Asus v pro gen 3 mobo
crucial M4 ssd
2x 1tb barracuda hdds
16gb g skill ram
1x sata optical drive
gtx 580 super overclock

I currently have an older Antec True Power quattro 850w PSU which has the following specs

+3.3V +5V +12V1 +12V2 +12V3 +12V4 -12V +5VSB
25A 30A 18A 18A 18A 18A 0.5A 3A (sorry for the editing - the 12v rails all have 18a)

I currently have the GPU plugged in using 2x 12v rails. 1 which plugs into the 8 port power connector and one which plugs into the 6 port power connector.

Would this psu be sufficient for the card? A thing i noticed was that after having the harddrives plugged in, the optical drive wouldnt open and close, but after i removed one of the harddrives, the optical drive would open and close.

Do you think ive cabled it incorrectly or the power supply isnt good enough for the setup.

thanks
Hello,



I've recently purchased a new PC consisting of:

i7 2700k

Asus v pro gen 3 mobo

crucial M4 ssd

2x 1tb barracuda hdds

16gb g skill ram

1x sata optical drive

gtx 580 super overclock



I currently have an older Antec True Power quattro 850w PSU which has the following specs



+3.3V +5V +12V1 +12V2 +12V3 +12V4 -12V +5VSB

25A 30A 18A 18A 18A 18A 0.5A 3A (sorry for the editing - the 12v rails all have 18a)



I currently have the GPU plugged in using 2x 12v rails. 1 which plugs into the 8 port power connector and one which plugs into the 6 port power connector.



Would this psu be sufficient for the card? A thing i noticed was that after having the harddrives plugged in, the optical drive wouldnt open and close, but after i removed one of the harddrives, the optical drive would open and close.



Do you think ive cabled it incorrectly or the power supply isnt good enough for the setup.



thanks

#1
Posted 02/23/2012 12:51 AM   
I assume rails 3 and 4 are dedicated for graphics alone. The PSU should be sufficent for that purpose.

Not sure whats up with your optical drive....
I assume rails 3 and 4 are dedicated for graphics alone. The PSU should be sufficent for that purpose.



Not sure whats up with your optical drive....
If it's only 1 video card 850W is more than enough power O_o May be your PSU is faulty, because it should not be having power issues.
If it's only 1 video card 850W is more than enough power O_o May be your PSU is faulty, because it should not be having power issues.



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Help fight Cancer, Alzheimer's and Parkinson's Disease by donating unused CPU and GPU power to Stanford University's Research Folding@Home projects:

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#3
Posted 02/23/2012 01:06 AM   
Ill try using the 3rd and 4th rails for the video card. From memory im not too sure which are being used for it at the moment.

Saying this i have been playing bf3 and skyrim all maxed out without any hiccups, i just wanted to be sure i wasn't under powering the card. Ive noticed a lot of the newer PSU's have 40 - 50amps per rail, which is a huge jump from the 18 which my psu has.
Ill try using the 3rd and 4th rails for the video card. From memory im not too sure which are being used for it at the moment.



Saying this i have been playing bf3 and skyrim all maxed out without any hiccups, i just wanted to be sure i wasn't under powering the card. Ive noticed a lot of the newer PSU's have 40 - 50amps per rail, which is a huge jump from the 18 which my psu has.

#4
Posted 02/23/2012 01:09 AM   
[quote name='yonich' date='22 February 2012 - 08:09 PM' timestamp='1329959386' post='1373532']
Ill try using the 3rd and 4th rails for the video card. From memory im not too sure which are being used for it at the moment.

Saying this i have been playing bf3 and skyrim all maxed out without any hiccups, i just wanted to be sure i wasn't under powering the card. Ive noticed a lot of the newer PSU's have 40 - 50amps per rail, which is a huge jump from the 18 which my psu has.
[/quote]

What is the make and model number of your PSU?

Trying to spelling it all out takes longer then posting a simple link.

I strongly doubt you have 4 rails which would be 12VDC only! But if you do, then I'd like to see manufacturer specs in this case.

[quote]A thing i noticed was that after having the harddrives plugged in, the optical drive wouldnt open and close, but after i removed one of the harddrives, the optical drive would open and close. [/quote]

This sounds like a short to me, or something not plugged in firmly and solid. Either way it sounds like a short circuit.
[quote name='yonich' date='22 February 2012 - 08:09 PM' timestamp='1329959386' post='1373532']

Ill try using the 3rd and 4th rails for the video card. From memory im not too sure which are being used for it at the moment.



Saying this i have been playing bf3 and skyrim all maxed out without any hiccups, i just wanted to be sure i wasn't under powering the card. Ive noticed a lot of the newer PSU's have 40 - 50amps per rail, which is a huge jump from the 18 which my psu has.





What is the make and model number of your PSU?



Trying to spelling it all out takes longer then posting a simple link.



I strongly doubt you have 4 rails which would be 12VDC only! But if you do, then I'd like to see manufacturer specs in this case.



A thing i noticed was that after having the harddrives plugged in, the optical drive wouldnt open and close, but after i removed one of the harddrives, the optical drive would open and close.




This sounds like a short to me, or something not plugged in firmly and solid. Either way it sounds like a short circuit.

#5
Posted 02/23/2012 05:47 AM   
it is the Antec TPQ 850 (TruePower Quattro)

http://store.antec.com/Product/power_supply-true_power_quattro/tpq-850/0-761345-27850-8.aspx - Link to the psu

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=71&Itemid=71 - shows the label on the psu itself about half way down the page.
it is the Antec TPQ 850 (TruePower Quattro)



http://store.antec.com/Product/power_supply-true_power_quattro/tpq-850/0-761345-27850-8.aspx
- Link to the psu



http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=71&Itemid=71 - shows the label on the psu itself about half way down the page.

#6
Posted 02/23/2012 11:33 PM   
[quote name='yonich' date='23 February 2012 - 06:33 PM' timestamp='1330039994' post='1374092']
it is the Antec TPQ 850 (TruePower Quattro)

http://store.antec.com/Product/power_supply-true_power_quattro/tpq-850/0-761345-27850-8.aspx - Link to the psu

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=71&Itemid=71 - shows the label on the psu itself about half way down the page.
[/quote]

Well, I stand/sit corrected!

It's rare in the PSU world to have more then 2 dedicated 12vdc rails and it's because there are two schools of thought on the matter. Every additional rail requires it's own regulator and circuitry which in turn requires more cost to manufacture. It's also additional heat and weight! One regulator for one rail is the norm now-a-days, because it's less expensive to produce and less heat as a byproduct, therefore, more efficient. Neither method says anything in terms of quality since quality is all about and only about parts and craftsmanship, with an ounce of care in the mix.

In this case, you do have to be careful as to what you run on each rail. Keep at least one rail specifically for the graphics card and the remaining 3 rails to run your peripherals such as optical and hard drives. But the highest 580 levels I've heard or read about are in the 500 watt range which equals 41 amps worth of draw! Not a single one of your 12vdc rails can do this...

The equation is simple:

The conversion of Watts to Amps at fixed voltage is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts

So for example, 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp

And now you know the surface of OHM's law, hope this helps but your PSU is not up to power in this case. But you might get by if you are willing to share rails....
[quote name='yonich' date='23 February 2012 - 06:33 PM' timestamp='1330039994' post='1374092']

it is the Antec TPQ 850 (TruePower Quattro)



http://store.antec.com/Product/power_supply-true_power_quattro/tpq-850/0-761345-27850-8.aspx
- Link to the psu



http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=71&Itemid=71 - shows the label on the psu itself about half way down the page.





Well, I stand/sit corrected!



It's rare in the PSU world to have more then 2 dedicated 12vdc rails and it's because there are two schools of thought on the matter. Every additional rail requires it's own regulator and circuitry which in turn requires more cost to manufacture. It's also additional heat and weight! One regulator for one rail is the norm now-a-days, because it's less expensive to produce and less heat as a byproduct, therefore, more efficient. Neither method says anything in terms of quality since quality is all about and only about parts and craftsmanship, with an ounce of care in the mix.



In this case, you do have to be careful as to what you run on each rail. Keep at least one rail specifically for the graphics card and the remaining 3 rails to run your peripherals such as optical and hard drives. But the highest 580 levels I've heard or read about are in the 500 watt range which equals 41 amps worth of draw! Not a single one of your 12vdc rails can do this...



The equation is simple:



The conversion of Watts to Amps at fixed voltage is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts



So for example, 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp



And now you know the surface of OHM's law, hope this helps but your PSU is not up to power in this case. But you might get by if you are willing to share rails....

#7
Posted 02/24/2012 01:36 AM   
Thats what i feared. I think it is just getting by but even with combined rails im not too sure the psu is is providing the power required by the card.

I might just pick up the http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_226&products_id=16143.
Thats what i feared. I think it is just getting by but even with combined rails im not too sure the psu is is providing the power required by the card.



I might just pick up the http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_226&products_id=16143.

#8
Posted 02/24/2012 04:05 AM   
[quote name='yonich' date='23 February 2012 - 08:05 PM' timestamp='1330056348' post='1374205']
Thats what i feared. I think it is just getting by but even with combined rails im not too sure the psu is is providing the power required by the card.

I might just pick up the http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_226&products_id=16143.
[/quote]


[url="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139015"]PSU[/url]
the one in your link is still multiple 12 volt rails, single 12 volt rail is the best way to go. look at the link i posted.
[quote name='yonich' date='23 February 2012 - 08:05 PM' timestamp='1330056348' post='1374205']

Thats what i feared. I think it is just getting by but even with combined rails im not too sure the psu is is providing the power required by the card.



I might just pick up the http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_226&products_id=16143.







PSU

the one in your link is still multiple 12 volt rails, single 12 volt rail is the best way to go. look at the link i posted.

Corsair C70 case, ASUS Sabertooth X58,Intel i7 970 6 core cpu, 24gigs Avant memory, PNY GTX 680 4GB, Corsair AX1200 psu with sleeved cables, Sound Blaster Z, 2 LG Blu-Ray, 2 Crucial M500 120GB SSD, 1 Seagate 500GB HDD, 1 Western Digital VelociRaptor 1TB HDD, Microsoft SideWinder X4 keyboard, Corsair M65 mouse, Xbox 360 controller, Logitech 5.1 speakers, LG 27" IPS LED monitor, 3 Noctua 120mm fans, 2 Noctua 140mm fans, 1 Noctua 92mm fan, Noctua NH-C12P SE14 140mm SSO cpu cooler. Windows 7 Pro 64 bit. GPU has a small overclock by me.

#9
Posted 02/24/2012 04:46 AM   
[quote name='yonich' date='23 February 2012 - 11:05 PM' timestamp='1330056348' post='1374205']
Thats what i feared. I think it is just getting by but even with combined rails im not too sure the psu is is providing the power required by the card.

I might just pick up the http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_226&products_id=16143.
[/quote]

The specs look good on the Antec, but might I recommend [url="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703028"]this as and Antec killer....[/url]

While I do not personally own this PSU, I just remember my days of the "turbo cool" series. Nobody had anything quite like it, and I hope that PCP&C has kept their quality standards over the years. If I was in your shoes looking to buy a new PSU, what I posted in the link above is where I'd be looking. And too, you can read the specs and reviews for yourself. So choose, but choose wisely.
[quote name='yonich' date='23 February 2012 - 11:05 PM' timestamp='1330056348' post='1374205']

Thats what i feared. I think it is just getting by but even with combined rails im not too sure the psu is is providing the power required by the card.



I might just pick up the http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_226&products_id=16143.





The specs look good on the Antec, but might I recommend this as and Antec killer....



While I do not personally own this PSU, I just remember my days of the "turbo cool" series. Nobody had anything quite like it, and I hope that PCP&C has kept their quality standards over the years. If I was in your shoes looking to buy a new PSU, what I posted in the link above is where I'd be looking. And too, you can read the specs and reviews for yourself. So choose, but choose wisely.

#10
Posted 02/24/2012 05:01 AM   
I built a system back in May 2011 around a GTX 580 and a intel i7-2600k . Corsair H50 filled with
Dihydrogen Monoxide and Ethylene Glycol, which as you may know is a highly explosive, toxic and
corrosive substance.


In the past I used Corsair supplies, Antec, and a few others.
THis time around I picked Seasonic.

750w supply, and plenty of power for that system.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151087

Still doing its thing, machine on all day every day pretty much. Protected with a UPS.

I'd say with todays hi performance systems there is a good reason for single 12v rails as one does not have
to be so aware of load balance issues, which was never that much of a concern until we got these beast cards.

There is a theoretical downside that single rail is more hazardous to your system because you have a single
point of failure that can take the entire system out in some horrid surge from hell.
In theory, a short on that single buss could be a disaster as it would eat a lot of current to pop a fuse. Perhaps a fire
would start earlier.

I can't say. I fail at theory. I just bit the blue pill and went with single rails this time.

Oh, over the years of use, I must say I had more Antecs fail than any other. HOWEVER I had more Antecs than any other Talking bout
pc's I build for myself since the 80's.

SOrry, I went off topic. It is what I do.
I built a system back in May 2011 around a GTX 580 and a intel i7-2600k . Corsair H50 filled with

Dihydrogen Monoxide and Ethylene Glycol, which as you may know is a highly explosive, toxic and

corrosive substance.





In the past I used Corsair supplies, Antec, and a few others.

THis time around I picked Seasonic.



750w supply, and plenty of power for that system.



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151087



Still doing its thing, machine on all day every day pretty much. Protected with a UPS.



I'd say with todays hi performance systems there is a good reason for single 12v rails as one does not have

to be so aware of load balance issues, which was never that much of a concern until we got these beast cards.



There is a theoretical downside that single rail is more hazardous to your system because you have a single

point of failure that can take the entire system out in some horrid surge from hell.

In theory, a short on that single buss could be a disaster as it would eat a lot of current to pop a fuse. Perhaps a fire

would start earlier.



I can't say. I fail at theory. I just bit the blue pill and went with single rails this time.



Oh, over the years of use, I must say I had more Antecs fail than any other. HOWEVER I had more Antecs than any other Talking bout

pc's I build for myself since the 80's.



SOrry, I went off topic. It is what I do.

#11
Posted 02/25/2012 06:55 AM   
[quote name='UziUzi' date='25 February 2012 - 01:55 AM' timestamp='1330152958' post='1374790']
I built a system back in May 2011 around a GTX 580 and a intel i7-2600k . Corsair H50 filled with
Dihydrogen Monoxide and Ethylene Glycol, which as you may know is a highly explosive, toxic and
corrosive substance.


SOrry, I went off topic. It is what I do.
[/quote]

C'mon,,,,Really!? So you run everyday tap water and plain ole automotive antifreeze huh /stud.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':stud:' />.... I've got $10 bucks that says you couldn't light it on fire even with a blow torch lol /rofl.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rofl:' />.....

You'd be better off running distilled H20 and everyday denatured rubbing alcohol in a 70/30 mix. Alcohol is one the few chemicals that will actually mix with water and it also helps break the surface tension of water, unlike ethylene glycol which is basically alcohol and oil, just so ya know. Antifreeze requires both heat and time before there is any sort of PH shift. You'll never hit acidic PH levels (corrosive) running a messily 100* F.

Just get the new PSU and make sure your home owners insurance is up to date, then sit back and smile like me /wallbash.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wallbash:' /> ....
[quote name='UziUzi' date='25 February 2012 - 01:55 AM' timestamp='1330152958' post='1374790']

I built a system back in May 2011 around a GTX 580 and a intel i7-2600k . Corsair H50 filled with

Dihydrogen Monoxide and Ethylene Glycol, which as you may know is a highly explosive, toxic and

corrosive substance.





SOrry, I went off topic. It is what I do.





C'mon,,,,Really!? So you run everyday tap water and plain ole automotive antifreeze huh /stud.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':stud:' />.... I've got $10 bucks that says you couldn't light it on fire even with a blow torch lol /rofl.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rofl:' />.....



You'd be better off running distilled H20 and everyday denatured rubbing alcohol in a 70/30 mix. Alcohol is one the few chemicals that will actually mix with water and it also helps break the surface tension of water, unlike ethylene glycol which is basically alcohol and oil, just so ya know. Antifreeze requires both heat and time before there is any sort of PH shift. You'll never hit acidic PH levels (corrosive) running a messily 100* F.



Just get the new PSU and make sure your home owners insurance is up to date, then sit back and smile like me /wallbash.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wallbash:' /> ....

#12
Posted 02/25/2012 03:07 PM   
[quote name='t3t4' date='25 February 2012 - 07:07 AM' timestamp='1330182452' post='1374918']
C'mon,,,,Really!? So you run everyday tap water and plain ole automotive antifreeze huh /stud.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':stud:' />.... I've got $10 bucks that says you couldn't light it on fire even with a blow torch lol /rofl.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rofl:' />.....

You'd be better off running distilled H20 and everyday denatured rubbing alcohol in a 70/30 mix. Alcohol is one the few chemicals that will actually mix with water and it also helps break the surface tension of water, unlike ethylene glycol which is basically alcohol and oil, just so ya know. Antifreeze requires both heat and time before there is any sort of PH shift. You'll never hit acidic PH levels (corrosive) running a messily 100* F.

Just get the new PSU and make sure your home owners insurance is up to date, then sit back and smile like me /wallbash.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wallbash:' /> ....
[/quote]
/rofl.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rofl:' /> good one. myself i like air cooling.
[quote name='t3t4' date='25 February 2012 - 07:07 AM' timestamp='1330182452' post='1374918']

C'mon,,,,Really!? So you run everyday tap water and plain ole automotive antifreeze huh /stud.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':stud:' />.... I've got $10 bucks that says you couldn't light it on fire even with a blow torch lol /rofl.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rofl:' />.....



You'd be better off running distilled H20 and everyday denatured rubbing alcohol in a 70/30 mix. Alcohol is one the few chemicals that will actually mix with water and it also helps break the surface tension of water, unlike ethylene glycol which is basically alcohol and oil, just so ya know. Antifreeze requires both heat and time before there is any sort of PH shift. You'll never hit acidic PH levels (corrosive) running a messily 100* F.



Just get the new PSU and make sure your home owners insurance is up to date, then sit back and smile like me /wallbash.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wallbash:' /> ....



/rofl.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rofl:' /> good one. myself i like air cooling.

Corsair C70 case, ASUS Sabertooth X58,Intel i7 970 6 core cpu, 24gigs Avant memory, PNY GTX 680 4GB, Corsair AX1200 psu with sleeved cables, Sound Blaster Z, 2 LG Blu-Ray, 2 Crucial M500 120GB SSD, 1 Seagate 500GB HDD, 1 Western Digital VelociRaptor 1TB HDD, Microsoft SideWinder X4 keyboard, Corsair M65 mouse, Xbox 360 controller, Logitech 5.1 speakers, LG 27" IPS LED monitor, 3 Noctua 120mm fans, 2 Noctua 140mm fans, 1 Noctua 92mm fan, Noctua NH-C12P SE14 140mm SSO cpu cooler. Windows 7 Pro 64 bit. GPU has a small overclock by me.

#13
Posted 02/25/2012 05:07 PM   
Someone on the internets has lost their humour filter.

By the way, the H50 is a sealed unit. Works fine. I dont need a new power supply.

Amazing trolls.
Someone on the internets has lost their humour filter.



By the way, the H50 is a sealed unit. Works fine. I dont need a new power supply.



Amazing trolls.

#14
Posted 02/25/2012 07:05 PM   
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