Passive Polarized 3D Rig Vs. 3D DLP Projection
  1 / 2    
Sorry to create another thread here, the last one got confusing.

I did not buy a 22" iZ3D. Ghosting simply won't do for this gamer. Can someone explain exactly what a polarized 3D setup is, and then compare it to a regular DLP stereo setup. I'm trying to get an idea of costs involved with both and what sort of preparations I might have to take for a huge 3D stereo display.

Thanks a bunch!
Sorry to create another thread here, the last one got confusing.



I did not buy a 22" iZ3D. Ghosting simply won't do for this gamer. Can someone explain exactly what a polarized 3D setup is, and then compare it to a regular DLP stereo setup. I'm trying to get an idea of costs involved with both and what sort of preparations I might have to take for a huge 3D stereo display.



Thanks a bunch!

#1
Posted 11/13/2007 04:18 PM   
Dlp-projector and shutterglasses: Simply works the same principle as CRT-monitor and shutterglasses.
Upsides: The setup is relatively cheap since the most cost is the projector and the shutterglasses. An appropriate screen might also be needed.
Downsides with this setup is that you need to be sure that the dlp-projector having enough refresh rate (at least 85Hz) to handle stereo-3d with shutterglasses. Else the reproduction will flicker/ghost too much. Also: You loose quite a bit of light since the eyes have to share the amount of light projected so a couple more Lumen output from the beamer is surely desired. If you want to be more than one person viewing you need and extra pair of shutterglasses to each and everyone watching. Ghosting rejection depends only on the ability of the projector to switch pictures fast.

Passive polarized setup (i have it myself): Works by the principle two projectors showing each eye on a special screen (so called silverscreen). Exactly the same principle as an IMAX 3D-cinema.
Upsides: For viewing you only need polarized glasses like when viewing the IZ3D. If more than one want to watch, only a pair of those polarized glasses each are needed. Ghosting rejection (experienced) is superb! I've seen nothing get close to it. Even though by a measurement you might have a ghosting rejection about a factor 80-100 (don't recall exactly but Jahun have a thread at the mtbs3d with a lot of valuable points). The light output is great since you have one projector for each eye. Guaranteed flickerfree reproduction too.
Downsides with this setup: Only one and it's a big one. It's really expensive! You need two projectors, one silverscreen or a special backside projection screen if you have the space and two polarization filters for each projector. The price of a decent silverscreen is about three times as much as an ordinary projectorscreen. There are also special stereoprojectors for sale that's already have the right polarization from factory. I'm not aware of any pricing there by now though but for a little more than a year ago they were huge expensive and no option for me. Might have changed today.
Remember: If you use dlp-projectors you'll only get maximum 45% throughput of light when polarized since you can only use ordinary filters that simply "cuts" the polarization! If you use lcd-projectors you can use special polarized filters using Stereopol technology. That way you get a light throughput at up to 76%! Beware though: These filters are huge expensive. :(. For me a pair of those costed almost as much as one beamer only. You can also use ordinary polarized filters for the cost of light and a slight color difference (absolutely no issue though). Now afterwards the SPARs i bought are surely worth the money! The setup i have now is a silverscreen @ 2000x1500mm, those SPAR-filters (stereopol) and hitachi 2500 ANSI-Lumen projectors running on low effect (2000 Lumen). Still the picture on the screen is brighter than an lcd-monitor! Gaming in 3D for now really gives the feeling of being IN the game!

Think twice before getting it though: The bulbs are really expensive (haven't changed any yet and have 2x600 hours of projector time). The state of the stereodriver progress might also make it wise to wait for awhile (hate to say this but don't want anybody to rush stuffs). I'm optimistic though. The newest betadrivers after 91.31 from Nvidia at the mtbs3d site have an onscreen display showing some stereosettings and you can run the games with two cpu-cores nowadays. It shows some interest from Nvidia to keep 3D up! Hopefully the lack of recently released officially stereodrivers depends on the Vista/DX10 and 8000-series introduction! :D
I hope this got you a bit illuminated though.

cheers
Dlp-projector and shutterglasses: Simply works the same principle as CRT-monitor and shutterglasses.

Upsides: The setup is relatively cheap since the most cost is the projector and the shutterglasses. An appropriate screen might also be needed.

Downsides with this setup is that you need to be sure that the dlp-projector having enough refresh rate (at least 85Hz) to handle stereo-3d with shutterglasses. Else the reproduction will flicker/ghost too much. Also: You loose quite a bit of light since the eyes have to share the amount of light projected so a couple more Lumen output from the beamer is surely desired. If you want to be more than one person viewing you need and extra pair of shutterglasses to each and everyone watching. Ghosting rejection depends only on the ability of the projector to switch pictures fast.



Passive polarized setup (i have it myself): Works by the principle two projectors showing each eye on a special screen (so called silverscreen). Exactly the same principle as an IMAX 3D-cinema.

Upsides: For viewing you only need polarized glasses like when viewing the IZ3D. If more than one want to watch, only a pair of those polarized glasses each are needed. Ghosting rejection (experienced) is superb! I've seen nothing get close to it. Even though by a measurement you might have a ghosting rejection about a factor 80-100 (don't recall exactly but Jahun have a thread at the mtbs3d with a lot of valuable points). The light output is great since you have one projector for each eye. Guaranteed flickerfree reproduction too.

Downsides with this setup: Only one and it's a big one. It's really expensive! You need two projectors, one silverscreen or a special backside projection screen if you have the space and two polarization filters for each projector. The price of a decent silverscreen is about three times as much as an ordinary projectorscreen. There are also special stereoprojectors for sale that's already have the right polarization from factory. I'm not aware of any pricing there by now though but for a little more than a year ago they were huge expensive and no option for me. Might have changed today.

Remember: If you use dlp-projectors you'll only get maximum 45% throughput of light when polarized since you can only use ordinary filters that simply "cuts" the polarization! If you use lcd-projectors you can use special polarized filters using Stereopol technology. That way you get a light throughput at up to 76%! Beware though: These filters are huge expensive. :(. For me a pair of those costed almost as much as one beamer only. You can also use ordinary polarized filters for the cost of light and a slight color difference (absolutely no issue though). Now afterwards the SPARs i bought are surely worth the money! The setup i have now is a silverscreen @ 2000x1500mm, those SPAR-filters (stereopol) and hitachi 2500 ANSI-Lumen projectors running on low effect (2000 Lumen). Still the picture on the screen is brighter than an lcd-monitor! Gaming in 3D for now really gives the feeling of being IN the game!



Think twice before getting it though: The bulbs are really expensive (haven't changed any yet and have 2x600 hours of projector time). The state of the stereodriver progress might also make it wise to wait for awhile (hate to say this but don't want anybody to rush stuffs). I'm optimistic though. The newest betadrivers after 91.31 from Nvidia at the mtbs3d site have an onscreen display showing some stereosettings and you can run the games with two cpu-cores nowadays. It shows some interest from Nvidia to keep 3D up! Hopefully the lack of recently released officially stereodrivers depends on the Vista/DX10 and 8000-series introduction! :D

I hope this got you a bit illuminated though.



cheers

Image

Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe

Cpu: C2D E6600

Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX

3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D

Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.

#2
Posted 11/13/2007 10:11 PM   
Hi,
have active 3D stereo setup (DLP projector (2 pcs) and e-dim shutterglasses)
for. gaming this is bombastic setup. The price/benefit ratio is high. Only one DLP projector is needed and shutterglasses. No special screen, only simple white wall.
Usage with this setup is possible in dark enviroment (in dark is practically at 85 Hz picture flickerless). Is absolutly no ghosting.
Second advantage for phanatics: it is possible usage of 2 projectors with Matrox Dual head2Go (or Triple!) adapter with resolution 2048x768 3D stereo projection! this is totally blast.
See please here /end):
[url="http://www.stereo3d.com/discus/messages/3177/3700.html?1169124411"]http://www.stereo3d.com/discus/messages/31...html?1169124411[/url]

regards
Peter
Hi,

have active 3D stereo setup (DLP projector (2 pcs) and e-dim shutterglasses)

for. gaming this is bombastic setup. The price/benefit ratio is high. Only one DLP projector is needed and shutterglasses. No special screen, only simple white wall.

Usage with this setup is possible in dark enviroment (in dark is practically at 85 Hz picture flickerless). Is absolutly no ghosting.

Second advantage for phanatics: it is possible usage of 2 projectors with Matrox Dual head2Go (or Triple!) adapter with resolution 2048x768 3D stereo projection! this is totally blast.

See please here /end):

http://www.stereo3d.com/discus/messages/31...html?1169124411



regards

Peter

#3
Posted 11/13/2007 10:28 PM   
Here is a picture of my dual projector setup (passive):

[img]http://bloos.homeip.net/3d-foto/3d-projectors.jpg[/img]

I use two Optoma EP739 (2300 Ansi 1024*768) - this setup is already 2-3 yers old - I plan to buy new projectors soon.

I can use this setup as active setup as well (at 85Hz) but I prefere dual passive projection due to flickering.

greetings
Werner
Here is a picture of my dual projector setup (passive):



Image



I use two Optoma EP739 (2300 Ansi 1024*768) - this setup is already 2-3 yers old - I plan to buy new projectors soon.



I can use this setup as active setup as well (at 85Hz) but I prefere dual passive projection due to flickering.



greetings

Werner

#4
Posted 11/13/2007 10:32 PM   
The OP said he hated ghosting... AFAIK, polarised setup will ghost. The big advantage of shutter glasses with DLP is that even at 60Hz it will NOT ghost. They both lose about the same amount of light but obviously dual projector will still produce double the amount of light as there are 2 projectors so the image will be brighter.

Also have to be careful about the 85Hz thing. Although a lot of projectors support this in stereo, you get yellow blue / tinting in certain (most?) models.

The downside with the DLP/shutterglasses combo is the darkness of the image and the flicker. Flicker only occurs in bright scenes and brightness issues have less impact if you have a projector with good lumen output... 2500+ perhaps from personal experience.
The OP said he hated ghosting... AFAIK, polarised setup will ghost. The big advantage of shutter glasses with DLP is that even at 60Hz it will NOT ghost. They both lose about the same amount of light but obviously dual projector will still produce double the amount of light as there are 2 projectors so the image will be brighter.



Also have to be careful about the 85Hz thing. Although a lot of projectors support this in stereo, you get yellow blue / tinting in certain (most?) models.



The downside with the DLP/shutterglasses combo is the darkness of the image and the flicker. Flicker only occurs in bright scenes and brightness issues have less impact if you have a projector with good lumen output... 2500+ perhaps from personal experience.

Windows 10 64-bit, Intel 7700K @ 5.1GHz, 16GB 3600MHz DDR4 RAM, 2x GTX 1080 SLI, Asus Maximus IX Hero, Sound Blaster ZxR, PCIe Quad SSD, Oculus Rift CV1, DLP Link PGD-150 glasses, ViewSonic PJD6531w 3D DLP Projector @ 1280x800 120Hz native / 2560x1600 120Hz DSR 3D Gaming.

#5
Posted 11/14/2007 06:26 AM   
[quote name='RAGEdemon' date='Nov 14 2007, 08:26 AM']Also have to be careful about the 85Hz thing. Although a lot of projectors support this in stereo, you get yellow blue / tinting in certain (most?) models.
[/quote]

correct - thats what my Optoma EP 739 does at 85 Hz - at 60Hz there is no tinting problem

[quote]polarised setup will ghost.[/quote]

well that depends on many factors:
- linear / circular polarisation - circular polarisation is much better concerning ghosting
- quality of the used polarisation filters
- silver screen (brightness, depolarisation)
- polarisation glasses used

all of these factors affect ghosting

greetings
Werner
[quote name='RAGEdemon' date='Nov 14 2007, 08:26 AM']Also have to be careful about the 85Hz thing. Although a lot of projectors support this in stereo, you get yellow blue / tinting in certain (most?) models.





correct - thats what my Optoma EP 739 does at 85 Hz - at 60Hz there is no tinting problem



polarised setup will ghost.




well that depends on many factors:

- linear / circular polarisation - circular polarisation is much better concerning ghosting

- quality of the used polarisation filters

- silver screen (brightness, depolarisation)

- polarisation glasses used



all of these factors affect ghosting



greetings

Werner

#6
Posted 11/14/2007 07:49 AM   
Have Benq PB 6240 (2700 ANSI) the picture is no dim no to bright with 2-3m diagonale, tint (problem?) is little L/R color difference on 85 Hz. Absolutly no problem - in stereo mode this is no noticeable - the color adaptation compensate this - no big problem for gaming. the bigger advantage of active setup - no special screen is needed and is cheaper.
It is true - flickerless is this setup only when is totatlly dark enviroment. It is possible progres in steps - 1 PJ active +2.PJ + filters and screen.
Have Benq PB 6240 (2700 ANSI) the picture is no dim no to bright with 2-3m diagonale, tint (problem?) is little L/R color difference on 85 Hz. Absolutly no problem - in stereo mode this is no noticeable - the color adaptation compensate this - no big problem for gaming. the bigger advantage of active setup - no special screen is needed and is cheaper.

It is true - flickerless is this setup only when is totatlly dark enviroment. It is possible progres in steps - 1 PJ active +2.PJ + filters and screen.

#7
Posted 11/14/2007 09:23 PM   
Hi
sorry , i have one question.
if the film play in shutter glasess (field sequential 3D format) , do paly in Passive polarized System ?
other words, Can i see [url="http://www.berezin.com/3d/coaster3d.htm"]http://www.berezin.com/3d/coaster3d.htm[/url] in Passive Polarized System.
Thanks
Hi

sorry , i have one question.

if the film play in shutter glasess (field sequential 3D format) , do paly in Passive polarized System ?

other words, Can i see http://www.berezin.com/3d/coaster3d.htm in Passive Polarized System.

Thanks

#8
Posted 11/21/2007 10:42 PM   
[quote name='hamzeh_m61' date='Nov 22 2007, 12:42 AM']Hi
sorry , i have one question.
if the film play in shutter glasess (field sequential 3D format) , do paly in Passive polarized System ?
other words, Can i see [url="http://www.berezin.com/3d/coaster3d.htm"]http://www.berezin.com/3d/coaster3d.htm[/url] in Passive Polarized System.
Thanks
[right][snapback]282736[/snapback][/right]
[/quote]

yes thats possible using stereoscopic player (www.3dtv.at)

greetings
Werner
[quote name='hamzeh_m61' date='Nov 22 2007, 12:42 AM']Hi

sorry , i have one question.

if the film play in shutter glasess (field sequential 3D format) , do paly in Passive polarized System ?

other words, Can i see http://www.berezin.com/3d/coaster3d.htm in Passive Polarized System.

Thanks

[snapback]282736[/snapback]






yes thats possible using stereoscopic player (www.3dtv.at)



greetings

Werner

#9
Posted 11/22/2007 03:01 PM   
I read this Passage in the other topic:
"A note to anyone who is going to try this. You have to have a CRT or DLP projector to do this. LCD projection won't work because all LCD screens are pre polarized!"
is it correct?
Can i use two projector of this type(Toshiba X3000) ? [url="http://www.wedgwood-group.com/toshiba_x3000_multimedia_projector.htm"]http://www.wedgwood-group.com/toshiba_x300...a_projector.htm[/url]
I read this Passage in the other topic:

"A note to anyone who is going to try this. You have to have a CRT or DLP projector to do this. LCD projection won't work because all LCD screens are pre polarized!"

is it correct?

Can i use two projector of this type(Toshiba X3000) ? http://www.wedgwood-group.com/toshiba_x300...a_projector.htm

#10
Posted 11/23/2007 02:47 PM   
[quote name='hamzeh_m61' date='Nov 23 2007, 04:47 PM']I read this Passage in the other topic:
"A note to anyone who is going to try this. You have to have a CRT or DLP projector to do this. LCD projection won't work because all LCD screens are pre polarized!"
is it correct?
Can i use two projector of this type(Toshiba X3000) ? [url="http://www.wedgwood-group.com/toshiba_x3000_multimedia_projector.htm"]http://www.wedgwood-group.com/toshiba_x300...a_projector.htm[/url]
[right][snapback]283515[/snapback][/right]
[/quote]

well, LCD projectors are not recommanded since they prepolarize the light - in most cases even different polarization on ged,green,or blue. You need to test them - if polarisation of all 3 colors are at 45deg then you are able to use them even without any polarization filters - mount them in a 90 degree angle to eachother and use a mirror (and change projection from front to back on one of the projectors) - this way you will lose even less light because you have no filters in front of your projectors. OK I know mouting and adjustment are a little bit more difficult. Instead of taking a standard mirror you should use a surface coated mirror.
If you want a simple setup use DLP projectors for passive stereo 3D

greetings
Werner
[quote name='hamzeh_m61' date='Nov 23 2007, 04:47 PM']I read this Passage in the other topic:

"A note to anyone who is going to try this. You have to have a CRT or DLP projector to do this. LCD projection won't work because all LCD screens are pre polarized!"

is it correct?

Can i use two projector of this type(Toshiba X3000) ? http://www.wedgwood-group.com/toshiba_x300...a_projector.htm

[snapback]283515[/snapback]






well, LCD projectors are not recommanded since they prepolarize the light - in most cases even different polarization on ged,green,or blue. You need to test them - if polarisation of all 3 colors are at 45deg then you are able to use them even without any polarization filters - mount them in a 90 degree angle to eachother and use a mirror (and change projection from front to back on one of the projectors) - this way you will lose even less light because you have no filters in front of your projectors. OK I know mouting and adjustment are a little bit more difficult. Instead of taking a standard mirror you should use a surface coated mirror.

If you want a simple setup use DLP projectors for passive stereo 3D



greetings

Werner

#11
Posted 11/23/2007 08:29 PM   
hi
thanks for your answer.but i'm sorry.i do'nt understand.please explaine this subject graphicaly or recommend links(web)
i have one lcd projector(toshiba x3000) and i want save money .thus i want buy only lcd projector instead two dlp projector.
In passive Stereo 3d with Dlp projector , we need two projector , two filter front of the lens of projector , one sliverscreen , and 3d glasess.Ok? But By your explain , if projector is Lcd , we need all them except filter front of lens, is it correct?
hi

thanks for your answer.but i'm sorry.i do'nt understand.please explaine this subject graphicaly or recommend links(web)

i have one lcd projector(toshiba x3000) and i want save money .thus i want buy only lcd projector instead two dlp projector.

In passive Stereo 3d with Dlp projector , we need two projector , two filter front of the lens of projector , one sliverscreen , and 3d glasess.Ok? But By your explain , if projector is Lcd , we need all them except filter front of lens, is it correct?

#12
Posted 11/23/2007 10:55 PM   
My hint: Stay away from anything "LCD" (projector and monitor), because LCD causes problems. Sell your LCD and buy a DLP, that's better IMHO.

Polarization of light is something you learn when you study physics at university (at least here in Germany), it's not a simple to understand topic, but I'll give it a try to explain the basics in my poor English...

For our eyes, every light we see is the same, but there are different kind of light waves. Imagine a light-wave swinging up and down in itself while going from a lamp to the screen. This is called vertically polarized light. Imagine another light-wave swinging from left to right in itself while going from a lamp to the screen, this is called horizontally polarized light. Of course all other directions of polarization are possible, e.g. light waves swinging at 45° angles between horizontal and vertical.
DLPs usually send out all kinds of polarized light. The filter lets through only one sort of light, so you loose more than 50% of the light because it has the wrong polarization and simply can't pass the filter.

If you use 2 DLPs you put one filter in front of the first DLP and the second filter in front of the second DLP, but you have to rotate the second filter in a 90° angle compared to the first filter. This way you get e.g. only the vertically polarized light through the first filter and only the horizontally polarized light through the second filter. With the polarized glasses you have to wear it's the same: They're only two filters with 90° rotation against each other. The rotation of the filters in font of your DLPs has to match the rotation of the filters in your passive polarized glasses, this way one eye sees only the vertically polarized light from the first DLP and the other eye sees only the horizontally polarized light from the second DLP.
Now you can also understand why the expensive silver screen is needed: You need a screen that doesn't change the polarization of light when reflecting it.

Now with the LCDs you have another problem: Light from LCD-projectors is pre-polarized, that means LCDs don't send out all kinds of polarized light, that's what wbloos wanted to tell you. To make it even worse, with some LCDs you get different pre-polarized light for each different colour! Imagine all blue light waves horizontally polarized, but all green light waves at 45° angle polarized... That doesn't work for our setup!

My second hint: Think about it, are you really ready to spend hundreds of dollars (or even more) and days and weeks of time to fiddle around with physics you barely understand? If your answer is "yes" my third hint would be: Try to find a physics teacher or somebody else nearby who can help you getting your setup working. This can save you a lot of money, time and nerves. You know, I like the internet, but there are some problems you can only solve with real-world-testing and knowledge that can't be found through google :blink:

Ok, long post. Everybody who reads this, let me know if you understand my explanation and if there are any words that I should correct.

M.

P.S.: Btw. my setup is CRT + shutter glasses and I'm happy with it, except for the nvidia drivers, you know what I mean :angry: Sometimes I also use my DLP (Infocus X1a @85Hz) with shutter glasses. At university I tried polarization filters, but you know: So much to try and test, but so little time...
My hint: Stay away from anything "LCD" (projector and monitor), because LCD causes problems. Sell your LCD and buy a DLP, that's better IMHO.



Polarization of light is something you learn when you study physics at university (at least here in Germany), it's not a simple to understand topic, but I'll give it a try to explain the basics in my poor English...



For our eyes, every light we see is the same, but there are different kind of light waves. Imagine a light-wave swinging up and down in itself while going from a lamp to the screen. This is called vertically polarized light. Imagine another light-wave swinging from left to right in itself while going from a lamp to the screen, this is called horizontally polarized light. Of course all other directions of polarization are possible, e.g. light waves swinging at 45° angles between horizontal and vertical.

DLPs usually send out all kinds of polarized light. The filter lets through only one sort of light, so you loose more than 50% of the light because it has the wrong polarization and simply can't pass the filter.



If you use 2 DLPs you put one filter in front of the first DLP and the second filter in front of the second DLP, but you have to rotate the second filter in a 90° angle compared to the first filter. This way you get e.g. only the vertically polarized light through the first filter and only the horizontally polarized light through the second filter. With the polarized glasses you have to wear it's the same: They're only two filters with 90° rotation against each other. The rotation of the filters in font of your DLPs has to match the rotation of the filters in your passive polarized glasses, this way one eye sees only the vertically polarized light from the first DLP and the other eye sees only the horizontally polarized light from the second DLP.

Now you can also understand why the expensive silver screen is needed: You need a screen that doesn't change the polarization of light when reflecting it.



Now with the LCDs you have another problem: Light from LCD-projectors is pre-polarized, that means LCDs don't send out all kinds of polarized light, that's what wbloos wanted to tell you. To make it even worse, with some LCDs you get different pre-polarized light for each different colour! Imagine all blue light waves horizontally polarized, but all green light waves at 45° angle polarized... That doesn't work for our setup!



My second hint: Think about it, are you really ready to spend hundreds of dollars (or even more) and days and weeks of time to fiddle around with physics you barely understand? If your answer is "yes" my third hint would be: Try to find a physics teacher or somebody else nearby who can help you getting your setup working. This can save you a lot of money, time and nerves. You know, I like the internet, but there are some problems you can only solve with real-world-testing and knowledge that can't be found through google :blink:



Ok, long post. Everybody who reads this, let me know if you understand my explanation and if there are any words that I should correct.



M.



P.S.: Btw. my setup is CRT + shutter glasses and I'm happy with it, except for the nvidia drivers, you know what I mean :angry: Sometimes I also use my DLP (Infocus X1a @85Hz) with shutter glasses. At university I tried polarization filters, but you know: So much to try and test, but so little time...

#13
Posted 11/24/2007 12:34 PM   
[quote name='hamzeh_m61' date='Nov 24 2007, 12:55 AM']hi
thanks for your answer.but i'm sorry.i do'nt understand.please explaine this subject graphicaly or recommend links(web)
i have one lcd projector(toshiba x3000) and i want save money .thus i want buy only lcd projector instead two dlp projector.
In passive Stereo 3d with Dlp projector , we need two projector , two filter front of the lens of projector , one sliverscreen , and 3d glasess.Ok? But By your explain , if  projector is Lcd , we need all them except filter front of lens, is it correct?
[right][snapback]283673[/snapback][/right]
[/quote]

yes thats correct, but you need a mirror as well AND it works only if all three components - red,green and blue are polarized in SAME direction - you may test this by using a linear polarizer in front of your projector (you may use even linear glasses to do this test) - hold the polarizer in front an rotate the filter - watch what hapens with the colors - is there color shifting -e.g picture gets bue or only red or any other mixed color when rotating the filter - if this is the case the setup i mentioned before does NOT work since the three colors are not polarized in the same direction - if picture gets only darker when rotating the filter then this projector will work.

greetings
Werner
[quote name='hamzeh_m61' date='Nov 24 2007, 12:55 AM']hi

thanks for your answer.but i'm sorry.i do'nt understand.please explaine this subject graphicaly or recommend links(web)

i have one lcd projector(toshiba x3000) and i want save money .thus i want buy only lcd projector instead two dlp projector.

In passive Stereo 3d with Dlp projector , we need two projector , two filter front of the lens of projector , one sliverscreen , and 3d glasess.Ok? But By your explain , if  projector is Lcd , we need all them except filter front of lens, is it correct?

[snapback]283673[/snapback]






yes thats correct, but you need a mirror as well AND it works only if all three components - red,green and blue are polarized in SAME direction - you may test this by using a linear polarizer in front of your projector (you may use even linear glasses to do this test) - hold the polarizer in front an rotate the filter - watch what hapens with the colors - is there color shifting -e.g picture gets bue or only red or any other mixed color when rotating the filter - if this is the case the setup i mentioned before does NOT work since the three colors are not polarized in the same direction - if picture gets only darker when rotating the filter then this projector will work.



greetings

Werner

#14
Posted 11/24/2007 12:49 PM   
wbloos is right, of course, and you have to remember that you have to use a special mirror (surface coated), as wbloos already said before!
Good luck, but consider reading and understanding my last post. Even if your LCD has the right polarization, you're far from being ready with your setup.
M.
wbloos is right, of course, and you have to remember that you have to use a special mirror (surface coated), as wbloos already said before!

Good luck, but consider reading and understanding my last post. Even if your LCD has the right polarization, you're far from being ready with your setup.

M.

#15
Posted 11/24/2007 01:08 PM   
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